Alphabet Soup

The Medina near ALIF Riad

When I hopped off the plane at Fes-Saïss Airport, I looked around the mostly empty tarmac and felt my mouth drop open a little bit. I couldn’t stop gaping as I absorbed the mountains and the bright tilework, and at that moment I broke my promise to not look like a clueless tourist. I took one Snapchat, forgot to save it, and then walked into the air-conditioned building. Since then I have been working hard for the label of “informed traveler,” but it will take more than a week here to achieve that status.

In the past seven days, I have already moved past my phrasebook Arabic to gather more words in Darija, the Moroccan dialect of Arabic. Because of its harsh, vowel-dropping tendency, Moroccan Arabic is one of the most difficult Arabic dialects to understand. Fortunately, my first word was fairly easy: kul. Kul, which sounds similar to cool, means “eat.” It is a word my host mom uses frequently, and her insistent kul’s remind me of dinner at home.

I can read and write almost all of my alphabet now as well. Letters like Ayn, Ghayn, DHaal, Saad, Qaaf, and Khaa continue to tangle up in my throat, but l am starting to hear the subtle differences between them. Occasionally, I realize I’m making chicken noises while I’m trying to practice “Qaaf.” It seems like everyone in the beginner Darija section is guilty of making unconventional sounds at this point, so I have decided to embrace the bird sounds.

As I feel more comfortable in class, I am also growing more accustomed to Fez itself. So far, I have only been lost in the alleys of the Medina three times. I love sitting in the Arabic school’s courtyard while I work on homework. In true Moroccan form, I am consuming levels of sugar that would make a toddler proud. Most importantly, I’m happy to be learning with other students in a completely new environment.

I’ll be taking my first road trip in Morocco on Saturday. Hopefully, my clueless tourist side will remember to document the trip with pictures, but until then I will continue developing my literate, informed traveler side. – Anna Cunningham

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