The Stetl and Beyond

MINISTRY OF CULTURE:

Our group woke up bright and early all excited to see the gorgeous capital of Lithuania- Vilnius. The day started with a visit to the Lithuanian Ministry of Culture- located in a building that was once part of the Jewish Ghetto in Vilnius.  Our group was able to meet with Audronis Imbrasas, the Vice Minister of Culture of the Republic of Lithuania. The discussion focused around the difficulties that are faced when it comes to preserving sites of Jewish culture throughout the region. We discussed with the minister how difficult it was to create centres of Jewish life without a particularly large Jewish community in Lithuania today.

Vice Minister Imbrues also was able to give us a new perspective on the state of affairs of promoting Lithuanian culture within the country, and also noted how there is a clear cultural divide. “If you ask someone over the age of 30 they will likely speak russian as a second language, if you ask someone under the age of 30 they will likely converse with you in english.”  Furthermore we discussed the many implications that our visit will have on the youth in the village. He said that some of the most important work that can be done is often times not through a government initiative but rather through private ventures that create positive connections with the local community.

HOLOCAUST SURVIVOR:

While we had originally planned to visit the Israeli embassy a new plan was established that allowed us to visit a Lithuanian Holocaust survivor, at Vilnius University. This was a great opportunity  as due to the passing of time we are left with fewer and fewer survivors with whom we are able to speak with. This is compounded with the fact that very few survivors of the Holocaust actually choose to return to their native countries.

After leaving the Ministry of Culture we started our walk towards Vilnius University. On the way we decided to stop and have brief a coffee break.  Cough* For some this coffee break lasted longer than others 🙂 Cough*

Upon arriving at the university we were directed to the centre for Jewish studies located in a beautiful courtyard. Vilnius University is distinguished as the largest university in Lithuania and is one of the oldest universities in Northern Europe- founded in 1579!

Once we got settled we were delighted to find out that we would be speaking with Mrs. Fania Brancowskaja -a Holocaust survivor who did not simply return to Vilnius after the war but rather took an active part in the liberation of Vilnius by working with the Soviet partisan movement agaist the Nazi’s! The discussion primarily focused on her memories from living within the Ghetto and her life as a partisan during the war. Thanks to our guide and translator Ms. Ruta we were able to really get a feel for her wartime experiences.

Mrs. Brancowskaja was in her early 20’s when she first entered the Vilnius ghetto with her family in 1941.  Within a short period of time she was able to join the soviet partisan movement. She noted how difficult it was to understand and react to the Nazi liquidation of the ghettos which made it difficult to organize a resistance.  She also noted the importance of maintaining a positive attitude during the war; even as she spoke of the horrors of the war more than 50 years later we could still hear how she discussed many of the events with optimism.

Perhaps one of the most intriguing aspects of the discussion was actually the time that Ms. Brancowskaja spent after the war and upon returning to Lithuania- an experience that is not often reflected in the memoirs of many survivors which usually end with a discussion of the challenges of finding a new home… not rebuilding in their native country.

LUNCH BREAK:

After walking for what seemed like an entire marathon we were able to enjoy some local Lithuanian cuisine! After parting with Ruta we returned to the old town of vilnius finding a nice little restaurant on Bernardinų gatve.  Among the many options we enjoyed beetroot soup, Blynai, Šašlykai, and the essential Cepelinai.  Each of thee foods tasted delicious and would set the tone for our later culinary adventures in the country. Interestingly enough as we were dining we encountered a group of ISKON followers chanting in the street- an interesting sight indeed!

AMERICAN EMBASSY:

With our bellies full we trekked across the city towards the American Embassy. The beauty of the city was on full display as we walked past gorgeous churches and passed many quaint shops along the street. When we arrived at the American embassy we had to go through a strict security screening- during which our phones were taken away! Once inside we were seated in a room that reminded me of my elementary school back home  waiting for the cultural attache Mrs. Anne Hall to meet with us.  

Mrs. Hall was very kind to us and thanked us for the work we are doing- one of the most important things she discussed was the challenges that come from working as a diplomat. She explained how sometimes even when she knows what is the best course of action, she has to sit back and let others figure it out for themselves. She provided to us a brief history of U.S- Lithuanian relations.

How we were seated inside the embassy (stock photo)

Only a few years after Lithuania declared independence (1918) the U.S established first diplomatic relations with the young nation (1922), this continued even after the Soviet Union’s invasion and incorporation of the Lithuania into the U.S.S.R. The United States never accepted this forced incorporation and chose to continue relations with the Lithuanian government in exile. This decision of viewing the present government (post 1991) as the a legal continuation of the interwar republic- has since resulted in the U.S having over 85 years of continuous diplomatic relations with Lithuania.

Mrs. Hall explained how it was this continuation of relations during the soviet period that has contributed to Lithuania being one of the most pro-American nations in Europe and the world, with 73% of Lithuanians viewing the U.S. positively in 2011.

Lithuanian American protesters

Mrs. Hall also acknowledged the great benefit that our program will have to improve the relationships for our two nations. Acting as student ambassadors we may be the only point of contact with locals “As an American” this meant that we should always be aware of our actions and strive to maintain a positive relationship wherever we would go.

DINNER:

This action packed day was concluded appropriately with a traditional Shabbat dinner that was presided over by our very own Rabbi-  Dr. Lieber! During this dinner we were able to reflect on the events of the day- and unwind…. With half of the table engrossed in a deep discussion of politics whilst the other nonchalantly joking about passport photos and our time in Europe.

Blog Post by: Shaun Taraporewalla