Bailey Carkenord Blog Post 3 – Art and Handicrafts in Morocco

When exploring a new place, I am always on the lookout for local artwork. My definition of artwork is broad: paintings, furniture, architecture, performances—anything that requires skill and creativity to create. Morocco does not disappoint—I am awed by works of art everywhere that I go. After only a few days I realized that art in the form of traditional crafts and artisanship seem particularly important to Moroccan culture and economy. After looking at items for sale in the Medina and touring The Center of Vocational Training in Handicrafts in Fez I am convinced that these practices reflect the soul of Morocco and am thrilled to see the preservation of these antique art forms.

I had heard of zellij, or mosaic tilework, before even arriving in Morocco via Suzanna Clarke’s book, A House in Fez. While restoring a traditional Moroccan house, Clarke searches for a craftsman who will be able to repair the zellij on the floor and walls. She finds someone, but it is expensive and time consuming. I later learned that many Moroccan people opt to replace old zellij with modern bathroom tile for this very reason. Looking at all the beautiful zellij around Morocco, it saddened me to think that people would want to remove it. However, I understand the financial restraints and was heartened to see people being trained in the art of zellij at the Center of Vocational Training.

Zellij on a fountain in a riad in Meknes.

A craft that certainly is in no danger of becoming extinct in Morocco is leatherworking. During our first weekend in Fez, we were given a tour of the city that included a visit to the Chouara Tannery, the largest in the city. When our group arrived, we were given mint leaves to drown out the scent of the tanning process and led upstairs through a maze of leather goods to a balcony overlooking huge drums of liquid. A worker pointed to different vats as he lead us through the process of cleaning and dying the hides before they were made into shoes, purses, wallets, furniture, and a host of other goods. I try not to buy leather goods, but I had to admit that the merchandise was beautiful and obviously took great skill to make.

Leather coin purses for sale in a shop in the Medina.

While on the same tour of the Medina we visited some local weavers. They showed us how they used massive looms to create scarves and blankets, thread by thread, the old-fashioned way, sometimes working for multiple days to create one piece. Later, at the Center of Vocational Training, I tried my hand at weaving. After a few tries, I felt like I understood the mechanics, but I couldn’t imagine spending entire days repeating the same motions over and over to create the beautiful tapestries that hung on the walls. Still, I was glad that there were still individuals who were willing to devote their lives to the loom in order to carry on the tradition of weaving.

Spools of thread and finished textiles at the Center of Vocational Training in Handicrafts in Fez.

Throughout my travels of Morocco I also observed intricate woodworking in houses and restaurants. At the Center of Vocational Training, we had the privilege to watch a craftsman carefully carve a huge wooden piece of décor. Taking his time, he used multiple tools to chisel, cut, and hammer flowers and patterns into the wood. I was amazed at how symmetrical his designs turned out, as he used no stencils, measures, etc. He had clearly put a lot of time and effort into learning the ways of his craft, and I wished I had the dirhams to purchase one of his works.

Inside a woodworking workshop in Meknes.

I once again had the chance to practice a craft myself when I attended a calligraphy class sponsored by the American Language Center in Fez. I was mesmerized as I watched the instructor effortlessly script names and phrases with the rudimentary wooden pens and thin, runny ink. He told us that Arabic calligraphy is often used in architecture, especially on mosques, and that a special calligrapher is needed to write marriage certificates in Morocco. I was pleased to hear that the ancient art form still had practical applications in the modern day.

My best attempt at writing my name in the Moroccan style of Arabic calligraphy.

A handicraft that is impossible to ignore in Morocco is present at every meal: tajines! The conical cooking dishes, along with other ceramic items, are clearly not just for viewing but are used daily in Morocco At the Center of Vocational Training, I watched two women hand-paint tajines in a room full of unfinished ceramics. Each piece was a unique work of art, and yet would go on to be appreciated each day not only for its beauty but its utility. My host family in Morocco cooks tajine dishes for dinner and stores butter, jam, and spices in smaller tajines around the house. I am confident that beautiful tajines will be crafted for years to come.

Decorative tajines for sale at the Center of Vocational Training in Handicrafts in Fez.

These are only some of the beautiful handicrafts that I have seen during my short time in Fez. At the Center of Vocational Training, I also witnessed artisans working with metal, plaster, and paint, and entered a workshop where traditional Moroccan instruments are crafted. While walking around the streets of Fez, I have seen woven baskets, embroidered clothes, and intricately decorated cakes and pastries—each of which is clearly an art form in its own right. I am delighted to see such a vibrant community of craftsmanship and art in Morocco, and humbled by the immense talent, originality, and dedication these Moroccan artisans possess.