Women in Morocco have been more affected by globalization than any other demographic in the country.  When one reads about the traditional 20^th century Moroccan woman, they read stories of veiled women kept behind doors, similar to many American housewives of the same era. However, as the West experienced a new wave of feminization and the sexual revolution, so, in a similar fashion, did the Arab woman.  During the ‘70s, as the American way of life started to spread to other areas of the globe due to globalization and commercialization, the life of the Moroccan woman changed precipitously.  The requirement that women wear a hijab and conservative dress was nullified.  Women could wear whatever they want (within reason), and could finally hold jobs or drive cars.  The mandatory male escort now found in many other Arabic countries was dropped by Morocco. So along with the McDonalds and the Starbucks came a liberated Moroccan woman.

above:  A picture of a Moroccan woman in Western clothing and without a hijab

Today, if Americans travel to Egypt or Syria, they would struggle to find women walking on the streets, and if they could, she would be fully covered.  However, the westernization of Morocco and the influence of French colonization have allowed Moroccan women to come out from behind the hijab and enjoy many more freedoms than other Arab women.  There is still a large struggle ahead for Moroccan women, as they are still intense objects of male attention on the streets and a large majority still elect to wear the veil; however, they are the most liberalized Arab women.

When I came to Morocco, I expected to see a much more conservative version of Moroccan females and was pleasantly surprised to see how free they were to do as they choose.  Walking down the street, I can find many women who look exactly like Americans, wearing shorts or tank-tops to combat the intense summer heat of Marrakech.  The women go to medical school or study economics and hold whatever job they please.  My host sister in Fez even told me she was unsure of whether she would ever marry or actually wanted children, an attitude very atypical for Arabic women.

above: a photo of Fez’s public university

I recently went to a recently opened shopping mall in Morocco. The shops inside are all very French or American, and Moroccans will not find a single djellaba in the building.  Stores like H&M, a very common store for American teenage girls, line the hallways.  Every store is full of cute summer dresses and shirts, and even bikinis.  The presence of bikinis to me is shocking and very telling.  Bikinis in America were considered morally inappropriate for women to wear until the sexual revolution, and now, because of globalization, are available to Moroccan women.  Throughout my visit to Morocco, it has become abundantly clear that Morocco’s globalization has allowed women to come out from behind their veils and accept a more prominent and Western role in Moroccan society.

As I sit here contemplating what to write about, I can hear Guns n’ Roses’ “Sweet Child o’ Mine” playing on someone’s stereo outside. Appropriate, given that our assigned topic this week is globalization. My goal here is to blend an academic definition of globalization and contrast it with the way it is usually used, with frequent reference to my time and experience here in Morocco, which is drawing to a close.

Two students pose with a promotional cut-out for Aicha Confiture, a Moroccan company who makes assorted jams

In his paper “Democratisation in the Middle East and North Africa: What is the Effect of Globalisation?” Jeffrey Haynes gives globalization a broad definition: “globalization encompasses the idea that human kind is currently experiencing a ‘historically unique increase of scale to a global interdependency among people and nations’.” He clarifies by highlighting three primary characteristics: “(1) rapid integration of the global economy, (2) innovations and growth in international electronic communications and (3) increasing ‘political and cultural awareness of the global interdependency of humanity’.” Globalization, then, is not restricted to certain time periods, and is certainly not a new phenomenon, but the post WWII world has seen more rapid globalization than most periods in human history, because of the relative peace that has endured, increased number of free trade agreements and IGO’s, as well as incredible technological advancements which have made international communication instantaneous and affordable for a huge percentage of the world’s population.

Discussions surrounding globalization tend to reduce themselves to debates, or at least dialogue about whether globalization is good or bad. This is an unproductive paradigm, given the complex realities of globalized societies- nowhere is this more apparent than a country which so earnestly maintains a strong sense of cultural identity in their psyche, while also supporting a large population eager to join the global middle class. It is far more important to ask how globalization impacts individual societies and evaluate objectively rather than characterize the process itself as good or bad, on the whole or on a country-specific basis. Morocco is also an interesting case because the most recent period of rapid globalization began while Morocco was still under the French protectorate- the current regime inherited close economic and cultural ties with the West, especially France. So, what does globalization look like in Morocco? What evidence of the three characteristics (outlined above) are evident, and what are their implications?

I will first tackle the question of electronic communications. Morocco’s major cities are highly modernized, especially the quarters which were built by the French adjunct to the medinas (old cities) in towns like Fes and Marrakech. The Ville Nouvelle and Gueliz respectively are brimming with cafes, all of whom have free wifi access for their customers. This should not be a surprise- many who visit remark that these cities reflect European design and culture more than that of Morocco’s native Arab and Berber cultures. But even in the more remote regions, it seemed hard to escape internet and wireless service. As we were led into the desert on camels by our Berber guides, I noticed one of them answering a call on his Samsung Galaxy S4. When we finally arrived and climbed to the top of the second highest sand dune in Morocco, someone took a selfie and was immediately able to post it, because even in the Sahara (albeit, not more than a few miles walk from the nearest road) he had a strong enough cell phone signal to access the internet. Satellite television is alarmingly prevalent and a diverse selection of radio stations also characterize and help dictate popular culture.

The most important implication seems to be the extent of cultural diffusion of popular music, television, and movies. Many radio stations play the same hits that are being played in the US, Britain, France, as well as non-Western countries. Movies channels often play uncensored versions of French and American movies with Arabic subtitles. Moroccan youth are extremely active on Facebook (I fear I might have to begin blocking notifications from a few of my new acquaintances) and I have stayed in close contact with a few people from Fes that I consider good friends. I assumed that the importation of so much Western culture would inevitably overshadow and threaten the survival of traditional Moroccan music, as well as television and films produced here in Morocco. While I recognize that this might be called an orientalist perspective, I remain worried. While there is not really a limit to the amount of music, movies, and television that people can produce, there is certainly a limit to the amount of these products that consumers can and will consume- a sort of artistic carrying capacity. But, Moroccan consumers don’t necessarily see it this way- they are simply consuming the music, TV, and Buzzfeed quizzes which they enjoy the most. On a micro level, they are acting rationally. Only time will tell what implications this has for Moroccan productions.

The third characteristic I outlined above is more abstract than the other two- awareness of the global interdependency of humanity. I still see evidence of it in my interactions. I should point out that most of the people with whom I have had extensive interactions are English speakers, who have chosen to study English for a number of reasons. One is of course, to improve their job prospects. Others want to study in foreign countries where they will need to know English. Others simply have a passion for languages, and have a particularly acute affinity for English. But, there are some who cite the need for cross-cultural connections and understanding. This goes straight to the heart of the third characteristic, although I am also aware that many of the areas of Morocco I have seen are primarily tourist economies and the desire to bridge the language and culture gap is a matter of survival. It’s difficult to see a downside of this. Unlike consumer goods or music and TV, learning new languages and connecting across cultures to better appreciate “the other”, it does not exclude others.

Fes’ tanneries, a major local industry. Goods produced here are high quality, made by hand, and cheaper than real leather in America

Now, I will turn to the most outwardly visible characteristic of globalization- economic integration. The most obvious way that this is reflected is in the availability of certain consumer goods. In many ways, I feel that Morocco has remained insulated from the negative aspects of global economic integration (cheaper imported products taking large market shares from local producers). In my experience, imported products and massive multinational companies have established a presence to appeal to the middle class, but for the most part, local products remain cheaper and more popular. For example, I am able to buy an espresso at a respectable café on any street in Marrakesh for 10 MAD (about $1.25). But, an espresso at Marrakech’s first and only Starbucks (which has been open just over a month) I will pay the same price I would in America, multiplied by 8 (the approximate exchange rate between USD and MAD). For most people, this is a premium they are not able or willing to pay (myself included). McDonalds, Kentucky Fried Chicken, and Domino’s Pizza occupy similar spaces in the local economy. They seem to serve more as luxuries which cater to the middle class who desire these products as a symbol of their position among the global middle class. This leads to perceptions of some of these establishments very different from those that most people hold in America, but on the whole, it doesn’t seem that foreign products have been able to displace local products in many industries (especially food staples- bread, meat, vegetables, and fruits). Certainly, there are exceptions (Tide detergent and Dannon yogurt come to mind), but on the whole, there is a clear division between those who can afford and actively purchase foreign made instead of local products.

To my dear American friends: as a representative of the rest of the world, I refuse to call the sport by any other name. Let me friendly remind you that I am backed by armies of support. The international governing body of the sport is named Fédération Internationale de Football Association; the tournament we have been watching every day is FIFA World Cup 2014, currently taking place in Brazil, where the sport is called futbol.

A very apt meme from Quora

(I highly recommend the entire thread: What are some good memes about America?, in particular this)

Thus far we have framed our globalization discussions in terms of politics, consumption-trade and cultural erosion (or the Americanization of the world.) Let’s switch our vantage point and see how globalization processes unfold as the ball rolls. Today, as we sat in an unassuming Marrakshi café, gasping in unison with the crowd around us at Cahill’s unbelievable goal, I was struck by how much of a shared obsession football is. I spent my last three World Cups in three widely different countries; in each one, I had sat in a café amidst a roaring crowd, cheering my lungs out just the same.

Originally a Western invention, football is well-loved in many, if not most, corners of the world. An estimated 700 million people watched the 2010 World Cup final live (figure quoted from Wikipedia – this blog post is decidedly nonacademic). In 1969, football legend Pelé’s visit to Nigeria brought a ceasefire to “what was then Africa’s bloodiest civil war,” a feat which diplomats had failed miserably to accomplish. For the current World Cup, Thailand’s military junta ‘pressed’ (pretty much a euphemism for ‘ordered’) TV regulators to make all live broadcasts free of charge – who says that all pressing public concerns can’t be immediately addressed? Where I come from, football is without doubt a national obsession. I am pretty sure more Vietnamese know about the existence of Maldives, a tiny island nation in the Indian ocean than that of, say, Mauritania, a country 3500 times the size of the former, because we lost to the Maldives national team some five years ago. Vendettas run deep. Here in Morocco, judging from the crowds that fill qahwas every time matches are broadcasted, the love for football is evident as well.

Face of the day: Pelé. From worldinsport.com

That love is a powerful unifying force across the globe, across nations, cultures and religions. Among the forces of globalization, rarely do we see any whose effects are so overwhelmingly positive. Football as a sport is easily accessible both to viewers and to players (Minimal equipment is required: a decent spherical object and a wide enough open space. Football is played in the refugee camps of Gaza, on the poorest streets of Vietnam and in grandiose stadiums).

I can wax lyrical about the beauty of football for the entire day (that, coming from the usually taciturn me, says a lot). However, I do not want to paint an overly rosy picture. When we shift our focus away from the sport in itself and start looking at the franchises and institutions surrounding it, a host of problems start to surface. In the globalization of football, we can catch glimpses of the multiple cons of globalization in general. One example is workers’ condition in places that are lower down the production chain: the Brazuca ball used for the 2014 World Cup is sold at $160, but the Pakistani workers who make them earn a paltry $100 a month. When a host country prepares for the World Cup, multiple problems ensue: workers’ conditions, environmental damages because of infrastructural pressures, potential failure of the state to put forth suitable domestic and international economic strategies, among many others. The global player trade brings about cultural exchange, but comes with many downsides as well.

That last paragraph is meant more to be quick notes than an in-depth analysis. Indeed, as I have mentioned above, the entire blog post is merely my personal impressions. For now, let’s step back and end the post on a note of positivity – let’s appreciate the matches while World Cup 2014 is capturing hearts and souls the world over.

(Photo of us watching football in the qahwa: to be updated. I don’t have any currently, but we go there every day).

A view of the Atlas Mountains, on the drive up.

It’s a long way down!

The Atlas Mountains is truly a sight to behold–it was a great prelude to the fantastic sights in store before my friends and I embarked into the Sahara.

A snapshot of our ride towards our camp.

Jeffrey, my new camel companion.

A great view!

Shielding myself from high-speed gusts of sand and the occasional rainstorm all endured atop my new camel friend, Jeffrey, through the desert was an adventure that’s hard to forget. Moments later, I would find myself a part of an 100-person mob that clawed, crawled, and frantically scrambled to scale the second tallest sand dune in Morocco, which towered above our camp like an incoming tidal wave. After our descent, we all were treated to a delicious three course meal by absurdly loud and semi-psychotic Berbers, making for a very unusual catering experience.

But still, I walk away from this all with a sort of hollow feeling. I feel as though I have only seen a fraction of the beauty in the stars, the dangers of the endless sea of sand, and the sights and sounds of the landscape. Even with my travels throughout Morocco, from Fes to Rabat to Meknes to Marrakesh, there are simply facets of life that seem to escape me at every turn. I can’t but help to feel that, as a foreigner, that the new world I find myself is equally as foreign.

Why is it that women have a stronger tendency to dress more freely in Marrakesh than they do in Fes? Does it lie in less restrictive cultural norms, or is it a product of the society undergoing a greater degree of globalization? If it is grounded in either of these reasons, or both, in what ways do these factors create an environment for these tendencies to grow?

This is just one of the many issues that have arisen during my travels in Morocco, and the sort of conversations that play on repeat in my head. It seems that until I break the vicious cycle, whether it be through studying literature, becoming more acquainted with the culture, or discussing these topics with those with respectable knowledge of the matter, I can never come to the conclusion myself, lest I allow myself to draw an unfounded conclusion, which would only serve to further my own stereotypes and create a false understand of a country I have had the amazing opportunity to reside in for a substantial amount of time.

In a sense, I think that healthy skepticism is a means of getting a solid footing in whatever it is a person seeks to gain knowledge about. I know that with time, the big picture will start to come together. Trends can be observed with greater clarity, and what was once mysterious can easily become an unmistakable reality. I know that some of my questions involve insight into deeply rooted religious and societal traditions, and so the brevity of my visit has proven that although I may live in and study this society, it’s a completely different thing to comprehend how these simple aspects of life can be rooted in concepts far more complex than one can ever hope to unravel.

I’ve got one last week left in Morocco, and I am just as excited to finish off strong as I am to finally return home. Seven more days to go!

The history of Morocco is deeply entangled with France due to its 44-year long occupation. Morocco gained its independence in 1956.  Although Morocco is no longer under the reins of a great European superpower, the influence on its culture and language is still very evident today. Anna, a Duke graduate student we had dinner with in Rabat, in response to a question of customs/norms here in Morocco, bluntly stated, “Well we’re in France so…” Although everyone just laughed, the statement floated heavily on many of my thoughts regarding the current effects of French influence in Morocco.

Her statement held true mostly because of our specific location in a westernized city like the capital, Rabat. However, in most of the cities in Morocco, there is a divide between what was created by the French (Gueliz) and the old fortified section from what existed before (Medina). The French quarters are considered more “modern” and “westernized” since they hold most of the businesses, tourist attractions, and night-life.

Almost everyone you meet here speaks French along with the native Arabic dialect of Darija. Most schools teach French starting from an elementary level. In every restaurant, all the menus are written in French. Even as a write this post, I’m sitting in a Café called Café les Negotiants staring right across the street at another called Café Le Renaissance. Also, a tourist in Morocco, where in most other countries would be automatically considered American, here are more likely to be first spoken to in French rather than English. Waiters will first greet you with a “Bonjour!”

It is because of all this that I am even more surprised to hear most people speak English.  Almost every university student we have met is studying English literature at the English department at their respective universities. When asked why that is at a round table discussion at Fes University, a student, Tariq, explained to us that learning English opens doors to many other subjects and avenues of education. “English is the language of the world”, he said. Another student explained to us that French is the language of the older generation, like their parents, and that their generation is more engulfed in English. Also, for most, they see it as essential to get a good job. Never mind the fact that they find it easier to learn than French, Spanish and other romance languages.

As we study Globalization and its effects on the politics of nations (specifically in the Middle East), I can’t help but reflect on that Tariq’s quote. What world was he referring to exactly? The ‘western world’? Western- dominated globalization is an interesting concept that pushed me to think about how much of an influence western countries have on other nations. The previous French occupation, where France dominated the social, economic and political aspects of the country, resembles to me now like a forced type of our current idea of globalization. This phenomenon I’ve observed (of a rise in native-Moroccan English speakers) forced me to make a connection to this previous type of domination. I’ve met Moroccans even taking matters into their own hands and teaching themselves English! Are we indirectly imposing domination through a modern-day concept of colonization we’ve termed ‘globalization’? The extent to which this influence of the English language presides in Morocco seems to only highlight this process of change already existing in Morocco.

(2 third-year general school books- left = English right = French)

*general school is the equivalent of our middle school

My second day in Marrakech my host family told me a list of places I HAD to visit during my time in the city. The usual touristy attractions were all on the list, but then came the surprise;  “We have to take you to our McDonalds and the new Starbucks that just opened”.  Two American food institutions present in almost any sizable American town were among Jemma el Fna, then medina, and the Majorelle Gardens as places I really had to go to before leaving Morocco.  For my host family, their McDonald’s and Starbucks along with some others such as KFC, was proof that Marrakech had arrived on the international scene, that it was an important enough and big enough city and tourist destinations to warrant the presence of two internationally known American franchises.  They looked a little disappointed when I told them that they really didn’t need to make special trips to take me to Starbucks and McDonald’s, that I would rather eat in Moroccan restaurants where the food is cheaper and often better (although I will say that the McDonald’s in Fez and Marrakech are the two cleanest, nicest looking McDonald’s I have ever seen).

Group picture on top of a VERY, VERY, VERY large sand dune

I notice little bits of America in Morocco all the time: riding in the car, eating in a restaurant, watching TV, and talking to native Moroccans in English.  One of the most noticeable American products is Coca Cola.  It is EVERYWHERE. Most corner shops, or hanoots have Coke signs out front to advertise, even in the small, middle of nowhere, rural towns we passed through on our way to the Sahara. Coca Cola products dominate the cooler at most hanoots I’ve been to. I’ve noticed very few Moroccan soft drink brands, and those that exist are basically carbonated fruit juice.  In fact, American food products are very prevalent throughout Morocco. You can buy Pringles, Doritos, Oreos, and M&Ms at any corner store or super market, although the flavors are often very unusual. 

Sunset over the Sahara

American pop cultural also has a large presence in Morocco. The Moroccan radio station my host family listens to in the car plays almost exclusively American pop music like Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, John Legend, or One Republic and a large amount of the music on my host sisters phone is American.  American TV shows and movies also have a very large presence in Morocco. My younger host sister comes home from school everyday and watches SpongeBob dubbed over in Arabic or other American cartoons converted into an Arabic version. Sometimes the cartoons are still in English, just with Arabic subtitles. Cartoon Network actually has an entire Arabic language channel that features many of the same cartoons that I watched when I was a kid, such as Tom & Jerry, Bugs Bunny, and Daffy Duck.  I came home from class for lunch on Tuesday and spent half an hour watching Fat Albert with the older host sister.  They do watch Moroccan and French TV shows as well, particularly when the mother is around, as she speaks very limited English.  My previous host family in Fez listened to American music as well, but did not watch any TV at all, Moroccan, French, or American. My vision of how American pop culture has affected Moroccans is skewed however, because I live with two girls who speak English and idolize America. I have no idea whether non-English speakers in Morocco still listen to American music, or watch American TV.

Oasis in the middle of the desert, in the middle of a combo dust/thunder storm

I’m very divided as to how I feel about the evident globalization of Morocco. On the one hand, increased commonalities between nations and cultures are a very positive thing.  We often become friends with people who have the same interests as us. In theory, the more Americans and Moroccans have in common culturally, the better relationships we can build with each other, as there is more common ground to build upon.  These relationships between Americans and Moroccans are important, especially given Morocco’s position as one of the more stable and Western friendly Islamic nations.   Also, if the Moroccan people want to consume American products and pop culture rather than Moroccan or North African products or pop culture, that is their choice. The global expansion is certainly good for American businesses.

My camel on the way out to the Berber camp

However, the globalization of Morocco also worries me.  Is Morocco giving up a bit of its culture and tradition to incorporate American elements? Will the new Starbucks draw significant business away from the traditional Moroccan cafes? Will American artists pull listeners away from the native Moroccan ones? At this point, Starbucks, KFC, and McDonald’s pose little threat to traditional Moroccan culinary institutions. Those three chains are still novelties in Morocco, and more importantly are extremely expensive by Moroccan standards.  There is also only one of each in Marrakech, so I doubt they are threatening the livelihoods of local Moroccan restaurateurs just yet. Their presence, however, still worries me. Yes, the more Morocco and America have in common culturally, the easier it is for Moroccans and Americans to relate to one another. Yet, the more Morocco becomes like America, the more I feel Morocco might lose something special in the process.

A good friend of mine, Adil, is an English student in Fes, who just recently finished courses relating to the Western world, in which he and his classmates discussed how modern music, the filmmaking industry, and media influences contribute to the changing cultural climate present within Moroccan borders. Unfortunately, Morocco has not seen a true return to its cultural roots since French colonialism, and its lasting impact can be seen in everyday life, from the architectural changes to fluctuations in language use. Compared to Fes, my new Moroccan home, Marrakesh, more clearly depicts the resulting effects of globalization in many ways.

My friend, Adil.

To start, Marrakesh feels more urban than Fes in a number of ways. Public transport, for one, is a bit of a different story here. There is a decent bus system running, streets are a bit less crowded as a whole, and taxis are just as prevalent as they are in Fes. Aesthetically, Marrakesh’s appearance looks a bit more reminiscent of a busy city than Fes, despite the French influences on the architecture of Ville Nouvelle, the new city of Fes. Even considering the medina in Fes, Marrakesh is a bit more tourist-friendly and clean.

Additionally, I generally feel a lot more comfortable in Marrakesh than I do in Fes. In Fes, I would be on constant alert, and had to remain vigilant of my surroundings, but I am much more comfortable with Marrakesh. Safety is not as much of a concern, as the streets are no longer strewn with vagrants, packs of wild dogs aren’t roaming freely, and the main roads are well lit. In addition, I feel a lot less like the exception and more like the majority here. Not in the sense that I share greater similarities with the people, but in the sense that foreigners are more of a reality for these people, making my experiences more fluid and enjoyable. In this way, it is easy to see how very basic observations can help someone understand the impact of becoming a more global society.

With regard to my new host family, not only does everyone in the household speak fluent English, but they exclusively watch English television, are academically involved with the language, and on rare occasions prefer its use over their native language when conversing with each other. Don’t get me wrong, they are very traditional, and extremely proud of their religion; living just outside of a mosque is a testament to their dedication to their faith, and even culture as a whole. However, it is hard to ignore the Western influences that are prevalent in their lifestyles. It is important to note that half of the family is American citizens—which may serve as an explanation for these trends.

But there are some aspects of life in these cities that transcend globalization. Many are so opposed to the growing trend of globalization that they want to remain in Morocco and make their country a better place. Contrastingly, those that are better understand its affects are more aware of the opportunities that lie beyond Moroccan borders, and are driven to explore those opportunities. Regardless of how globalization has affected Morocco, these young people have their own views, created through their own understanding of the world, which can be heavily dependent of level of education. My families in Fes and Marrakesh have very different amounts of wealth and possessions, and in spite of these facts the need to conserve energy and spending is of great concern to them. Even within a world that is becoming increasingly global, there are some things that remain prevalent throughout a society.

With that, I’ll be ending my entry for this week. Oh, and sorry for the punny title. I’m open to criticism if you feel so obliged. See you next time!

This statement was proclaimed by my host sister last night when we discussed the differences between her and my host brother’s nightly activities.  I engaged my 20-year old host sister in a conversation about my 15-year old host brother and my observations about his behaviors. I’ve been living with my new family in Marrakech for about two weeks now- consisting of a host mom, dad, sister (20 years old), and two younger brothers (15 and 5 years old). My host sister is the only one in the family who speaks English, and is therefore the person in the family I speak to the most. She is a second year at Marrakech University and also takes English classes at the American Language Center! She has been great host- driving me around on her motorbike and inviting me to have tea with her and her friend. I would like to say that I have become pretty good friends with her. Last night, I happened to ask her where Sema’a, (the 15 year old brother) was, and she replied, “out.”

“He’s always out!” I said, jokingly.

She laughed and agreed, and also added that the previous night he hadn’t even come home.

This intrigued me, since I haven’t seen her step out once the whole time I’ve been here.

“You’re parents are okay with that?” I said, not knowing what else to say.

“No! Of course not!” She said. “But there is nothing they can do!”

“What about if you did that?” I asked, curious to see if she was just a very anti-social person.

“Oh my god, my parents would kill me!” She said, surprised I even suggested it.

I was compelled to ask: “Couldn’t they just kill him?! Why can’t they do the same to him?!” and she said,

“Well, he is a boy, and I am a girl.”

And that was that. He was a boy. She was a girl. That said it all. I couldn’t say I was surprised. From my time here in Morocco, and from other experiences I’ve had in the Arab World, I have gained such an interesting perspective on various gender issues that exist in predominately Islamic societies. This is not the first conversation I’ve had with my host sister regarding gender inequalities and norms here in Morocco. Last week, I had tea with her and her friend, where we discussed different gender norms in respect to dating and relationships. They told me how difficult it was being a girl here, as they have to abide by a completely different set of rules. Boys are held to a different standard, and aren’t condemned for sexual behaviors before marriage like girls are. It is very crucial for girls to be virgins until marriage; it is custom that one receives a ‘virgin certificate’ from a doctor confirming this.  Sexual behaviors are just one type of behavior that girls cannot indulge in for fear that is not acceptable or allowed.

Once arriving in Morocco, it didn’t take long before I came to the realization that I would be treated differently because of my gender. Simply walking down the street can become an extremely uncomfortable task as I become subjected to various cat-calling, whistling, and poor pick up attempts. The harassment women face on a day-to-day basis is strikingly different from anything I would have to deal with in the States. The type of respect and autonomy granted to me in the states is non-existent here, as I am constantly objectified and demeaned. Walking around the city, it is apparent that there are big differences between the two genders. Most women wear Djellabas and head scarfs, covering almost all of their bodies and figures, swallowing it into a long drape of cloth. There are some women who wear ‘western’ clothing (tight jeans, cute shirts), but it is rare, and if so, it is almost always more conventionally or complimented with a traditional headscarf. Although the dress and general appearance of all women on the streets might differ slightly, almost all are dressed more conservatively than the men.

(a woman in Marrakech wearing a Djelleba while riding her motorbike)

Why is it that girls are simply held to different standards? Why are they treated differently within a religion that preaches equality for all under God?

To study these issues further, our class is reading ‘The Veil and the Male Elite: A Feminist Interpretation of Islam”. Although I am currently only on Part 2, as I continue reading, the insight I have gained has only added onto my real life experiences as a girl here and overall observations of gendered life here in Morocco. The author, Fatima Mernissi, begins by diving into the origins of Islamic teachings, the Koran, and analyzing how the different Hadiths (short accounts of the Prophet’s words and deeds reported by his disciples) came about and even in some instances translated into modern religious practices, law and politics.

One example of a Hadith relating to women in Islam is the Hadith that mentions how the prophet uttered that the dog, the ass, and the women interrupt prayer if they pass in front of the believer, interposing themselves between him and the qibla (orientation to the ka’ba). This Hadith deeply disturbed the author, as the Hadith was suggesting harm against women. It categorized them with other disorienting things, and therefore inherently marginalized them with society. This concept was translated into my daily observations here of gendered Moroccan religious practices. In mosques, women are not allowed to pray with the men. They are put in a separate room, or are encouraged to pray at home. From both my families in Fes and in Marrakech, I have observed that the women in the family pray at home, while the men always went to the mosque. This always struck me as a unique phenomenon, as I had previous notions of synonymous religious practices for all.

There is also another Hadith Mernissi mentions, arguably the most popular pertaining to women’s rights in Islam, that “Those who entrust their affairs to a  woman will never know prosperity”. Although there is a lot of controversy over this powerful Hadith, it has very visible and discernible consequences for modern-day life in an Islamic country. This is evidently still believed, since most of those in politics and in powerful positions in society are men. From most of my observations, this has held true. Most of the figures of authority like police officers and traffic cops I see on the streets are men. Of the various educational institutions we’ve been to, like the University and the American centers both here and in Fes, the people in the highest positions have been men. Even most of the businesses and stores here are operated by men- most of the people I see standing behind the counter and managing the operations of the stores are almost always men.

These arguments/observations are not to be generalized to all affairs conducted with predominantly Islamic societies. The Hadiths I chose to elaborate on are ones specifically mentioned in Mernissi’s book, and as her point eludes, are highly contested by modern scholars such as herself. As her main argument suggests, Islamic teachings are based strongly off of interpretations. I myself am only taking what I have learned and applying it to my real life observations and experiences.

Marrakech and Fes have been very different in terms of these gendered experiences. Marrakech is definitely a more ‘western’ city, with more tourists and English speaking Moroccans. It is also where, surprisingly enough, there has been more of a  contrast in terms of women’s conventional practices. Women in Marrakech are either wearing a full Djellaba or full western clothing. Here, there are more women out in bars, restaurants and cafes sitting alone or with friends. Also, I’ve also experienced less harassment than in Fes.

(taken in the back of a cab in Marrakech)

Is this due to outside influences, pressuring the society to adhere to more ‘modernized’ gendered norms and behaviors? Living in a predominantly Islamic country, it is easy to pass off these cultural norms and gender roles as stemming from a historically oppressive religion. Is that really the origin of these practices? Did God (Allah), and/or the prophet really mean to place women inferior to men? Or is it an evolutionary phenomenon entranced by a historically patriarchal society? What came first, men’s sexist views of women or the prophet’s revelations that were interpreted by these men to be inherently sexist?

The role of religion in the lives of Moroccans and the clash it has with the average citizens practices and behaviors is something we aim to study more in our class. Next week, after returning from the Sahara Desert, we start conducting interviews with native Moroccans on the impact religion has on their views of citizenship. It will be interesting to contrast their responses to my observations and experiences as a women here in Morocco.

What does it mean to get a McDonalds in your city? This question, asked by my professor, seems stupid in the context of most American cities. Yet, in Morocco the concept takes on a different meaning. Whereas many in America see McDonalds as something that they expect to find in every city they visit, most Moroccans consider it to be a luxury and something stupid to waste money on when there are so many other cheaper places to get food. McDonalds comes to symbolize, along with other stores and institutions, a piece of a recognizable landscape that allows people to feel at home no matter where they are and contributes to a homogenized landscape devoid of uniqueness. As the world becomes more globalized and interconnected McDonalds and similar chain stores have popped up around the globe and signify a status for cities that elevates them into a different tier of global city. If your city has these types of stores then someone from the West, looking to make a profit, has probably taken note of some aspect of your city whether that is its growth, its increase in tourism, or some other factor. The question then is whether this is a positive or a negative aspect of globalization. Is it the expansion of a Western luxury into a new market where more people will have the opportunity to take advantage of it? Or does it signify a slow decline in culture and the creation of a homogenous and uniquely uninteresting global landscape? What attracts these businesses and what effects do they have on the communities they invade? Based on my experiences in Fez and Marrakech I will attempt to answer these questions by looking at the degrees to which they display these Western franchises, how I perceive them in relation to tourists, and what effects I think they have had on the communities in which they are located.

A McDonalds in Marrakech

There is one McDonalds in Fez. It is centrally located and you can tell any cab driver that you want to be taken to the McDonalds and they will know exactly where you want to go. It is part of a shopping center that opened a little over a year ago that contains other Western stores and restaurants. There is an obvious French colonial influence, especially in the Ville Nouvelle, but nothing is as Western as this central shopping center and so devoid of anything I would consider to be Moroccan. The streets are lined with cafes, restaurants, and stores that sell various things, but they reflect a less commercialized lifestyle than the megastores seen in the shopping complex. The city felt vibrant and full of culture in every corner from the Old City to the neighborhoods of the Ville Nouvelle. The people were friendly and life didn’t seem to vary much in each part of the city except in the minute details. There were tourists, but it didn’t feel like a tourist community or a hot destination.

A McDonalds in Fez

My experience in Marrakech has been very different. The city is much more Western in the sense that there are malls, multiple McDonalds, department stores, and other commercial aspects of life one would expect to see more in the streets of New York than the heart of Morocco. A new Starbucks, the third one in Morocco, opened just before our arrival in Marrakech and from what I’ve been told it was a big deal. The store was crowded its first day and has been almost every time I have walked past it. But at what price do these companies move in? I have been pleasantly surprised by the availability of cheap, good espresso during my time in Morocco, and how will the cafes that serve these drinks be affected? Marrakech seems much more touristy to me, but in a way that has made me feel more at home. The familiar sites of stores like Starbucks and KFC has made me feel less out of place, but it also makes me wish we had chosen a different city in which to study. I have observed many more tourists than in Fez and that has probably attracted more wealth and then more Western companies. It makes me feel like the culture of the city has been replaced by the same homogeneity that sucks the life out of cities all over the US. I don’t see the same level of interconnectedness and community I saw in Fez. Cab drivers aren’t as friendly and I don’t see people performing simple acts of kindness like I did in Fez. This is not to say that I dislike the city. I like many aspects of it. But I came to Morocco expecting to experience a different culture, a culture like that in Fez, and in Marrakech I get the feeling that this way of life has been taken over and modernized and is no longer recognizable. The people in the city deserve to live the life they want to live and if that entails these Western amenities then that is their choice, but at what cost? The want to emulate what appears to be success or to want what you see others possessing is natural, but the cost, based on what I have observed in these cities, seems immense.

More Pictures to come!!

Having spent a lot of time in both Fez and Marrakech, it is easy to see that Marrakech is a more westernized city with many more tourists.  Walking into the Fez Medina is like walking into a different age.  It is the largest urban area without any cars in the world.  Though many of the shops target tourists, the medina remains a part of history.

above:  View of Fez Medina from above

Because of the lack of tourist sites and only a few major historical sites, Fez is not a common place for tourists to go.  On the other hand, Marrakech is full of tourists.  The abundance of historical monuments, exotic food, and beautiful cityscape draws over 10 million tourists to Marrakech every year.  The traditions and exotic nature of Marrakech makes it an optimal destination for travellers in Morocco.

I can sense how many tourists are in a city by way the natives react as I walk around.  In Fez, where tourists are more scarce, foreign females are stared at everywhere they go.  People always try to talk to us, saying “Hello!” (In Arabic, English, French, Spanish, and German, actually) and attempt to get our attention.  Once I was even offered 500 camels for my hand in marriage!  However in Marrakech, everyone is so used to seeing foreigners, we get significantly less male attention.   We are noticed as different, but for the most part we are, left alone.  It makes for a refreshing change!

above: gate into Fez Medina

In Fez, while there is significant change because of globalization, the extent is not as drastic as in Marrakech.  Fez is filled with mostly Moroccan people, even in the French Quarter, “Ville Nouvelle.”  Besides a few fast food places in the very center of the Ville Nouvelle, every restaurant is authentically Moroccan, and there are hug numbers of cafés lining the streets.  There are few massive, tourist-oriented hotels and only one shopping complex that I found.  To me, Fez had more small family stores than Marrakech; it was less commercialized.

above: traditional Moroccan food served at a party

However, I feel the western travellers choose to visit Marrakech because it is the most westernized city in Morocco.  In what I imagine used to be a historical and authentic Moroccan city now holds giant malls, several McDonalds, and even a Starbucks!  Besides the constant Arabic chatter and the call of the Adan five times a day, walking through Marrakech is very similar to walking through any American city.  There are restaurants and fast food places, people in business suits and people begging for money.  This combination of a westernization and history draws tourists who are able to see a part of the past without journeying too far out of their comfort zone. They can take the train for day trips at beaches or more secluded historical sites and still return to the comforts of the five star hotels in Marrakech before the day is over. Though there are a lot of great and interesting things to see in Marrakech, I personally believe that globalization has definitely affected the city’s aesthetics an tourist levels; the more western aspects of Marrakech draw foreigners who would otherwise visit very interesting, but less “comfortable” cities like Fez.