By Tyler Goldberger
This trip has been one of the most memorable experiences of my life. I came into the Andalusia course eager to learn about such a fascinating time in history, but I did not imagine how much this history and these narratives would come to life over our week in Spain. I have been lucky enough to have been to Spain twice in the last eighteen months – first, a semester abroad in Madrid, and second, a summer research position looking at historical memory in Spain to jumpstart my double theses in History and Spanish. Even with these experiences, this class trip felt much more intimate and much more concentrated on such an important topic. Our Andalusian adventure toured the development and restrictions of Christian, Muslim, and Jewish communities during and follow Muslim rule in al-Andalus. There were so many memorable portions of the trip, and I want to highlight a few that were significant to me.
Our time in Sevilla resonated deeply with a lot of the class due to its beauty and historic nature. Our bond strengthened over the course of our Sevilla adventure, and it was an added bonus to form such strong relationships with my classmates. We knew we had to end up in Granada by the end of our last day in Sevilla, so we decided to take the morning leisurely. We found a nice café and then made the decision to go through the Jewish Museum located in the Jewish Quarter of Sevilla (judería de Sevilla) even though this was not an original destination of ours. We ran into it the day prior and thought it would speak to the themes of Reconquista and Convivencia that have been so crucial to our understanding of this complex time period.
I cannot express how much I appreciated the visit to this museum. While small in size, this space gave Jewish people the voice to explore their own past history. As we have learned, Jews were severely mistreated by the Christians once they claimed much of the territory and eventually were expelled in 1492. Therefore, it was rare for Jews to have the opportunity to express their version of this time in al-Andalus. This museum developed the life and experiences of Jews in southern al-Andalus because of its concentration on important Jewish figures and events that impacted the Jewish population. Instead of giving an abridged historical account, the museum made sure to emphasize Jewish stories and voices of suffering and survival under Christian rule. The narratives highlighted the pain and loss that came from tragic moments in Sevillian history, including the July 1391 riots that left many dead. We were able to engage with the policies and practices of the Inquisition from a Jewish perspective, something uncommon when considering how minority/oppressed voices find it difficult to distribute their version of history. These ideas and themes came to life at this Jewish museum.
We also learned about an old mosque that was a large synagogue while the Sevillian Jewish Quarter still existed. Today, however, this important Jewish worship site transformed into a large church now called Iglesia de Santa María la Blanca. It was unfortunately closed when we attempted to enter, but we were able to see the original entrance door of the old synagogue. Right in front of me, I saw the transfer of religious power that came with political leadership and land/territory acquisition. Sevilla presented a rich and accurate story of the relationship of Abrahamic religions in Spain in medieval al-Andalus. Grateful is an understatement for being able to experience this history where it happened many years ago.
Now, I see myself interested in the current Jewish population in Sevilla and all throughout Spain. As someone who studies post-Franco historical memory in Spain, I have engaged with the more contemporary aspects and population of this region. However, I find myself wanting to focus more specifically on how Jewish populations have developed since 1391 and 1492 in this region. When we toured the old synagogue of Córdoba, I asked the tour guide how many Jewish families still reside in this prosperous city. Quickly, she acknowledged that only five families still call Córdoba home. What has influenced the Jewish population to stay away from Spain? Are there any attempts to pull these Jews back to their Sephardic roots? Our trip has brought so much history to life for me, and I come back yearning to know how this history has manifested itself in today’s make-up of Spain’s religious population.
