I believe the last adventure was in Cappadocia.  So to stay in a chronological order the next place our group journeyed to was Catalhoyuk. We traveled way back in time to 7,400 and 6,200 BC or at least in our imaginations we traveled.  Catalhoyuk is a neolithic settlement spanning around 34 acres and it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its incredible wall paintings depicting the evolution of social organization and cultural practices as humans adapted to sedentary life (unesco.org).  Today all we have to see is the excavation sites and the remnants of walls and other parts of their village.  From there we visited some of the 13th century Seljuk Madreses in Konya.  The first one we visited Karatay was famous for its tile work and the other Ince Minareli is famous for its impressive portal and stone carving.  After a good lunch we went on to the Museum of Mevlana, the spiritual leader of the ‘Whirling Dervishes.’  Konya the town we were in is famous for being the capital of Sufism where the ‘Whirling Dervishes’ was a critical part.  The museum complex was built around the tomb of the Sufi mystic Rumi.  It was one of the best and well kept complexes I had seen.

Our journey then took us to Pammukkale where we not only saw the famous white travertine terraces but also the remains of the ancient city of Hierapolis.  Both the Greco-Roman City and the hot springs are considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  The city was built around the natural hot springs around 2nd Century BC.  The Major remains that we saw were the Necropolis which is the most famous in Anatolia for holding around 1200 tombs, the Hadrian Bath, Triumphal Gate of Frontinus, Royal Road, the Theater, and Agora.  The necropolis was incredible to walk through and truly was the largest necropolis I had seen.  Then probably because it was our first true ruins site I was so impressed with the remains of the city and theater.  But the highlight of this day was definitely walking down the travertine terraces.  Over the years from the build up of calcium carbonate minerals on the terraces the whole area consists of white travertines.  From a distance and in pictures it looks like the side of the hill has been covered in snow that just won’t melt but once you start walking in the water you find it is warm and the white travertine is a solid rock structure.  We started walking as dusk started and the whole experience was very beautiful and very surreal.

The next day we visited Aphrodisias, the capital city of Lydia which was dedicated to Aphrodite.  This was probably my favorite ruins site mainly because of how well it was preserved.  They believe that only 1/10 of the ancient city has been excavated but it is already in the World Heritage list of UNESCO.  We would find that this was a common theme of ancient cities and I find it incredible that only 1/10 of the sites have been excavated, I guess just the time and money that goes into excavations is so much that governments have found that it isn’t worth it.  But in talking with our tour guides it is mainly the money and with the current economic position our world is in I don’t think governments are going to be focusing on excavating ancient cities for a while. Before we ended our day we stopped at the House of Virgin Mary in the Ephesus area.  It was incredible to see how many people travel there and how populations from every religion/ethnicity/and cultural background have come to accept her as a major figure in history and spiritually.  Up until this point the sites we had seen were pretty well off the beaten path so it was disappointing to see such an important spiritual site be turned in to such a tourist trap.  But that definitely didn’t stop me from having a really meaningful experience.

The next day we are in Ephesus which was once the capital of Asia Minor.  The major remains we saw here were the Great Theater, the Celsius Library, Fountains of Domitian and Trajan, the Roman Bath, the Terrace House, and the Odeon and Commercial market.  What was most impressive about Ephesus is the size of it, and again only 1/10 of the site has been excavated so I can only imagine what the area must have looked like at the peak of its importance.  I was really disappointed in the restoration process and I think it was because the site has been worked on since 1863 when archeologists were more interested in discoveries than restoring what they discovered.  But the Terrace Houses and the work that they were doing on those was so impressive.  That same day we went to the tomb of St. John in the Basilica and also the remains of the Artemission or the Temple of Artemis which is considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.  Today all that remains of both sites is pretty sad at least compared with the work that has been done at the site of the city.  But yet there are still columns and outlines of the places and we are able to say for certain they are what they are and that is pretty incredible when you start to realize these sites have been here since the 1st century BC.

On Sunday Oct. 28 we began our trip back up to Istanbul.  We first stopped at Pergamum the ancient city that was first established by Lysimachus, a general under Alexander the Great.  Parchment was invented under the patronage of Eumenes of Pergamum, as a substitute to papyrus which was not being exported from Alexandria and in an effort to make the library of Pergamum grander than the Library in Alexandria.

The Hellenistic theater of the city with a capacity of 10,000 people had the steepest seating of any known theater in the ancient world.

From here we traveled to Troy.  We contemplated whether Herod was telling the truth about the city and whether the Trojan War really occurred.  The site had been saved after a German archeologist came in digging for Gold and the Treasures of Troy (which he found and supposedly are now in Russia’s possession).  It was a really incredible site but after seeing so many ruined ancient cities the past few days we were all exhausted and sadly the excited flame within all of us was waning.

The next day we made our way back to Istanbul.  But before we could get to Istanbul our faithful bus broke down.  Hey, it wouldn’t be Turkey or an real trip if there wasn’t a little mishap here and there. Anyways, at the end of this 10-day journey we had covered 3,000 km on the road (more than 1850 miles).  We had visited 6 more sites inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage list and visited or driven by the sites of 3 of the 7 Churches of Revelation.  Over all we saw a lot of Turkey and truly were able to explain the amazing amount of history this country has.

It made me realize how young America really is especially when you compare our history to the ancient history of these countries.  Of course with my constant thoughts of politics and state making it made me realize how stupid it is for us to try and group and make states of such ethnically diverse areas.  The fact that when the Middle East and Africa were divided into nation states based on their ties to the European powers instead of their ethnic allegiance it makes me so angry.  It is no wonder when you start to see the complex history and development of civilizations in this area that there are so many problems today.  I think American politicians should be more mindful of the history that lies within these countries, and think backwards before trying to move them forward.  Because more than likely the countries are either a. not ready or b. not willing to move forward yet and only when they want to change will they change.  This thought process of mine continued as I traveled to Egypt the next weekend.  But that will be in the next post SO stay tuned for more from me soon!

Safranbolu

At 6:30 AM on Saturday the gang headed out of Istanbul towards Safranbolu.  This was the first stop on our 10 day adventure!  Safranbolu is famous for the Ottoman style houses that remain in the old city today and the fact that it is an UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Arriving in the town we immediately went and had a good old Turkish Brunch and then hopped out of our bus and onto Golf Carts!  (That’s right ladies and gentlemen Turkey has golf carts too)  There are so many houses, fountains, mosques, and other buildings that we had to see that doing it on foot would have been very difficult, so why not take golf carts.  The Old town is situated in a deep ravine and from several different points on our tour we got some awesome views of the entire town.  This was the start of me constantly thinking, “How has all of this survived so long?”  The houses that we were seeing had been there since the Ottoman era and that era lasted for over 600 years starting in 1453.  So you see these houses were old but amazingly well preserved.  After the golf cart trip we had the chance to explore the old town’s market.  Safranbolu is also famous for Saffron and their Lokum (Turkish delight).  After sampling many pieces of Lokum and enjoying a nice cup of Saffron tea we headed out of Safranbolu and on towards Ankara.

Ankara is the capital of Turkey and if you talk to any of the natives that is about the only reason people know it.  We began our morning by learning about the different periods and civilizations who were living in Turkey or then Anatolia by visiting the Ankara Museum of Anatolian Civilizations.  This gave us some excellent background before we delved into seeing the actual capitals of many of the civilizations.  The most fascinating thing I think that we saw in the museum were statues of Mother Goddess.  The most impressive statue shows her taming two leopards while giving birth.  For the Hittites a major civilization living in Anatolia she was a major religious figure but then again they are also known for being the civilization with 1,000 Gods and Goddesses.
Leaving the museum we headed to Ataturk’s memorial that was built several years after his death.  Many people consider him a dictator and in looking at the definition of a dictator he kind of was, but the Turkish people look to this memorial and do not look at him as one.  It was a really impressive complex filled with a lot of symbolism and nationalist pride.  It was kind of overwhelming how much many of the Turks loved him and their love carries over to today.

For those who do not know Ataturk was the creator of the Turkish Republic after the Turkish War for Independence at the end of World War II.  He created their government, their laws, everything that is Turkey today.  While many do love him still, there is a huge movement of conservatives to return Turkey to what it was like before the Republic and Ataturk.  Because of this there are many Turks who fear that within ten years the Turkey they know and love today will no longer exist.  I also walked away from the memorial with an unsettling feeling in terms of the power we allow leaders and our government.  Yea Ataturk was a great leader and loved by his people, but what if this wasn’t the case.  All anybody needs to do is look at the upheavals in Syria and see the negative effects of allowing one person complete control.

The rest of the day we traveled to the capital of the Hittites and had the opportunity to see the foundation of their city, center for worship, and the gates to the city.  Walking around the area I did my best to use my imagination and see what life must have been like for them.  It is crazy to think that the foundations still exist.  So many times throughout this trip I have been so overwhelmed by the history and artifacts that we still have today.  It makes me realize how young of a country America really is and makes me wonder what will be left from our day and age for people to see in the future.  We ended the day in Cappadocia exhausted from the long day of traveling but so excited for the day ahead.

On Monday we woke up at 5 am, I know you must be thinking these people are wearing us out and while yes I am exhausted we were getting up so early to go HOT AIR BALLOONING!!! So needless to say getting up at 5 am was a small price to pay for the amazing adventure we had.  It truly was like a dream (especially since I am pretty sure we were all half asleep still).  Fitting all 22 of us into a basket our balloon took off and we sailed up into the clouds.  But it wasn’t just us in the sky, there were about a hundred other balloons taking off and floating around the sky too.  It was amazing getting to see the sun rise above the most mystical landscape I have ever seen.
You see, the fairy chimneys and landscape that Cappadocia is famous for was created as a Volcano erupted spilling lava onto the Earth.  As the lava cooled into rock it was covered over the years by softer rock and earth but then as rain fell the softer rock was eroded away leaving the amazing rock formations that we see today.  The erosion remains a problem and is something historians and archeologists are constantly fighting against but just like the other historical sites we’ve seen there is an amazing amount of structures that they have been able to restore and protect.  Some of those are the churches and monasteries that ancient Christians built as they were fleeing Roman persecution.  Not only were the artwork incredible but the structures themselves and the time it must have taken to carve out the areas was astounding.  Walking around the area and seeing the fairy chimneys felt like we were on another planet uncovering an unknown civilization.  It was a really cool experience and all of that happened before lunch!

After lunch, we headed to an old family run ceramics studio. It turns out that Cappadocia is famous for many things other than the fairy chimneys- their pottery and wine being just a few.  It was really cool to see the studio and then watch one of their masters work on the wheel.  After this we headed to watch Whirling Dervishes perform in an old Caravansary (trading post built by a sultan).  The whole performance was really fascinating and mesmerizing.  We were not allowed to take pictures or video as the Dervishes were performing for us but what they were actually doing was a very spiritual connection with Allah and prayer.  While they are spinning they are entering another mental state and transcending the worldly and enter a spiritual place.  After their performance they return to their own rooms and meditate.  For me the experience was really amazing but I also felt sad that they had taken this very personal and spiritual experience and made it into a tourist attraction.  I feel that religions pride themselves on being very traditional and personal but when it comes to making money religious institutes just like anybody else will do whatever it takes.  Every day I find myself sadden by how much our world and lives is run by money and the need to make and spend it.

Look forward to more exciting adventures as we continue our 10 day journey around Turkey/Anatolia.  Some major places coming up include Ephesus, Troy, Pamukkale, and Gallipoli!!

Another week has come and passed, but this one was filled with many sensations.  The first was disappointment as I journeyed to the Turkish police department for the fifth time (yes FIVE TIMES) and was turned away without my residence permit.  You see when an individual is studying in Turkey they must obtain a residence permit to leave and re-enter the country and that same individual must travel to the farthest and most out of the way police department to obtain that permit.  Granted I can only blame myself for why I had to go five times BUT I was really hoping the fifth times the charm… sadly the sixth will have to be.  On the plus side of being turned away disappointed I was determined not to let this get me down so I went on an adventure to cross of some things on my Istanbul bucket list.

The first stop was the Archeological Museum!  For those of you who didn’t know I am kind of a history nerd and when I was younger I really wanted to be an archeologist (this may help you better understand why this museum was the first I ventured to).  It was really impressive and after passing through a number of sarcophagi I stumbled upon Alexander the Greats.  It also had a number of greek and roman statutes and a very cool exhibit on Istanbul through the ages, as well as the oldest peace treaty.  Next I took on the Egyptian Spice Bazaar in Eminönö. Meeting up with two of my friends here we took on the hustling and bustling bazaar. Each stall was filled with dried fruits, spices, and different nick knacks.  So I love strawberries, and really anything strawberry flavored BUT finding dried strawberries was possibly the most amazing discovery.  If you’ve never had them DO IT, it will possible be the best decision of… your day.  After all the excitement we headed to the Galata Bridge and had a great fish dinner overlooking the Bosphorus Strait and Istanbul. In all it was a pretty great day!

The next day I took on the Grand Bazaar and well lets just say I couldn’t shake the sensation of being watched.  A. I went with one of my roommates and a friend from my program-an all girl group. B. We all are very attractive young women, if I say so myself.  C.  All the merchants we passed were men, Turkish men.  We were angels… Charlie’s Angels, we were the Spice Girls (even though there were only 3 of us), and then we were beautiful ladies, etc.  While all comments were very flattering, we only had a little bit of time to spend before the bazaar was to close so we couldn’t stop for them all.  But really the bazaar was amazing- huge, beautiful, and extraordinary.  There isn’t anything like it or at least not that I’ve seen.  I will definitely be going back multiple times throughout this semester!

On Friday I had the strong sense of finally belonging in Istanbul.  There’s no doubt that I am not originally Turkish- My light hair and eyes are a dead give away and well my Turkish or the lack there of is also a pretty big give away.  But just feeling comfortable getting around, and being in a place is a pretty big step when you think about how far away from home I am.  I feel it a lot when I’m in the more touristy parts of the City and seeing the way the tourist act makes me realize that I’m not one of them.  I am a student here and am truly trying to learn the culture, the language, and the city.  I may never physically fit in but emotionally I’m starting to sense at home here.  Part of this was going to Ortaköy with one of my roommates and as we walked among the jewelry vendors I found myself feeling excited to use my Turkish and in return the vendors were pleasantly surprised with it.  They could tell I was learning but that didn’t matter to them- they still thought it was pretty cool.  Then when I split from my roommate and had to get back on my own I wasn’t nervous or scared because I knew I could do it.

Saturday is the reason for the title of this post really because I went to Sensation and well I definitely felt a number of sensations while I was there!  For those who don’t know Sensation is “an indoor electronic dance music event” (Wikipedia) that began in the Netherlands but now is a global event.
You have to wear all white, they bring a couple of really famous house DJs, and then decorate the arena according to the theme (Turkey’s was ‘Wicked Wonderland’)/do a light show in rhythm with the beat of the music. 

It was a night and a morning that I’ll remember forever because A. I’ve never experienced anything like it B. We were right up in front of the stage and C. It was AWESOME!!

What wasn’t so awesome was having to wake up at 8:00AM that morning and only getting maybe an hour of sleep.  You see on Sunday I was sensing major sleep deprivation as I ventured out on our programs Sunday excursion to Princes’ Islands.  Luckily this was possibly the best excursion for having little to no sleep because all we had to do was sit on a boat and listen to our tour guide as she talked about the surrounding sites of Istanbul.  Then when we got to the Island we had a short hike up to the top (after getting to ride a horse drawn carriage to the midway point) and see an old Greek Orthodox Church.  Plus the day was beautiful and the absolute perfect weather for a boat trip.  While I did do a good bit of napping, I did take a way a few things from the trip I promise.  First Istanbul is HUGE, like it’s really big and that really didn’t hit me until we were about two hours from the city center and the area on the land was still considered within the city limits.  Over time it seems that as Istanbul has grown in population size it has just overtaken the outlying towns and villages adding them to the city.  Second, I have grown so accustomed to the art and architecture of Mosques that I was not really that impressed with the church and felt overwhelmed by all of the depictions of people on the walls and ceiling.

Well there you go! My week of many sensations ended with exhaustion but a happy exhaustion as I had a busy and adventurous week.  Look forward to more exciting stories from Istanbul and other places around Turkey as our program begins our big fall break trip this coming Saturday.

My weekend began on Friday as I traveled over to Asia to Ülker Sports Arena to watch the Boston Celtics play the Fenerbahçe Sports club (one of many sports clubs in Istanbul).  Walking into the arena I immediately felt at home as I pretty much grew up in the old Charlotte Hornets Arena and still enjoy going to see the Charlotte Bobcats.  But lets be real, my recent home arena is Cameron Indoor and there really is no other place like it!  While going to see a basketball game in Istanbul was not on my Bucket List for this semester, it definitely happened.
The funniest part of the whole evening though is that (besides the fact that the announcer was talking in Turkish and I had a tavuklu dürüm (chicken wrap) from the concession stand) I felt like I was back in America.  The whole set up of the game was the same- the teams, the dancers, the t-shirt toss, the popcorn, and there was even a stereotypical Asian girl riding a unicycle flipping bowls onto her head at half time.  Needless to say I was in heaven and didn’t realize how much I miss home until that moment.  This feeling continued on to the next day when I watched ESPN Game Day which was happening in Columbia at USC.  While I was working on my Turkish homework, the football talk just got me all nostalgic and wishing I was home watching Duke beat up on UVA.  But then the Istanbul dogs began barking and I realized where I was, and well Istanbul is an incredible city and I’m determined to explore every nook and cranny.

My exploration began in Sultahnamet the next day as our group toured Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque, the Aya Sofia, and the Basilica Cistern.  Basically we covered the top tourist attractions of Istanbul…exactly a month after our arrival (oops?).  Topkapi Palace was huge and magnificent, granted I can’t believe I didn’t expect this since everything we’ve seen that was built by the Ottomans has been huge and magnificent.  Seriously though, the kitchen fed around 5,000 people regularly.  And don’t get me started on the jewels or the bejeweled thrones, daggers, letter boxes, and pen cases.  I mean these people knew how to live in style.  But walking through the harem and being told the way that they lived, I couldn’t help but think,”life would be great if you were the mother of the crowned Prince, otherwise it would kind of stink.”
As a woman during that time you were just expected to lay around and pop out kids and pray that it was a boy and that he became Sultan next.  Laying around is great and all but I go crazy if I’m not busy doing something and I’m really not ready to think about kids yet.

The Blue Mosque was beautiful and very grand and yes it is blue BUT it’s blue in the sense that the tile they used on the inside of the Mosque is all blue and white.  You see being of Central East Asian decent the Ottomans admired the Chinese porcelain and in Iznik expert tile makers did their best to recreate the blue and white color for this magnificent mosque.  It was not my favorite mosque experience (and by now I can say I’ve had many a mosque experience).  The whole affair felt very touristy and it really upset me when we walked in and several women had been given shawls at the doors but they wrapped them around their shoulders instead of their heads.  It was just very disrespectful and made them look very ignorant.  It worried me that the Turkish citizens were constantly seeing these people act in this way and I’m sure they were thinking, “stupid western tourist, can’t even be respectful of the Islamic faith for 10minutes.”  I really hope that wasn’t the case but to be honest that’s what I was thinking and I am a western tourist.

The Aya Sofia was probably my favorite place we toured.  Walking in one can’t help but be humbled by the size and grandeur of the place.  But more importantly it was truly a symbol of Christianity and Islam colliding (my other worlds as I am a Christian but am exploring the Islamic world currently).  It was incredible seeing the ancient mosaics from the days it was a magnificent Basilica and then turning slightly and seeing these huge circles with Arabic script written on them.  In this one place an individual is able to walk in and truly see and feel both the importance of religion to the region and the history of the clash between the two.  It was truly incredible and once this sank in the call to prayer began.  It was the most beautiful call I had heard (partly because I was on a high from what I had just seen but more importantly because it was a duet between the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sofia).

Finally our day ended with a trip to the Basilica Cistern.  Located right beneath Sulthanamet and the Aya Sofia is a hidden wonderland.  As we descended the stairs I couldn’t help but feel like I was in an ancient fairy land.  With water, fish, and columns scattered throughout it is hard not to feel like you have stepped back in time.  What is fascinating is that for centuries it was used by people who knew about it as a great fishing hole.  Locals would go through their basement and get into boats that would take them to this hidden wonderland.  I of course kept thinking, “Man this would make an awesome spa!”  I could’ve spent all afternoon there relaxing and meditating (even though I’ve never meditated before).  It was so peaceful and truly the perfect way to end a very hectic and full day of touring.

My final two worlds that are colliding currently are that of my life in college and my plans for after college as I work to figure out internships for this summer.  Time is flying by and I really can’t believe that I am a Junior in college with one full year left before I graduate.  Looking up at the bulletin board above my desk I have pictures from home of my friends and family.  It seems like just yesterday I was graduating high school, that I was a going to Clover football games, and singing in the Choraliers.  And then I turn around and see the amazing memories I’ve made in college and it makes me sad to think that this chapter is also coming to a close.  But in reflecting on all of this I’ve also realized that time keeps going, I keep making amazing memories, and the people who have always wanted to be a part of my life still are and will always be.  So while yes one chapter ends, it doesn’t mean that the characters in that chapter just disappear, they take on new roles and continue to be a part of my book of life.  Plus I get to move forward and make more amazing memories as I continue to strive to live in the moments that make me happy.

This week was the first time that I felt like I was really living in Istanbul.  While I have been here for almost a month now, we have been doing so much traveling around Turkey that we haven’t really been living in reality.  So while the title of this weeks post is mainly about me tumbling all over campus, it also reflects my sudden jolt back to reality.  To be honest this was a welcomed jolt for while I enjoy the traveling I am really excited to get to know more students and learn about the culture of Turkey from interacting with them and my professors.  Plus I am a nerd (I am who I am), I love to learn and well there is nothing that makes this girl happier than new books, pens, pencils, and folders.  Getting back into the classroom, taking notes, and listening was a great feeling.

Thus far I am super pleased with my courses and am really excited to be taking Media and Globalization, Diplomatic History, History of the Ottoman Empire, and Turkish.  But I am even more pleased with the atmosphere of my classes.  Growing up in small town South Carolina I had not been exposed to many different types of people (if I was I had to go in search of them) so when I went to Duke I was super pumped to meet people from not only all over the country but people from all around the world.  Well… Duke has nothing on Bogazici when it comes to the span of International students on campus.  I had a moment in one of my classes where this all really hit me.  We were discussing globalization and with each comment the teacher asked for we got a different perspective of what globalization meant.  There was a girl from the Netherlands, a boy from Turkey, an American, and the list goes on.  And already I have made friends from Iran, Pakistan, Germany, other parts of America, Canada, France, and Spain.  So not only do I get this amazing feeling inside the classroom but outside of it too when we are just talking about life.  It has made me realize how very little I really know about other cultures and it really makes me want to travel and see the world but not just through tour groups- I want to really stay in the culture and get to understand the people.  Who knows maybe I will live abroad some more in my life, but only time will tell.

With a successful first week under our belts, our program headed off to Edirne (the second major Ottoman capitol).  This time, we stayed in Europe and traveled right up to the Bulgarian and Greek border.  Once we got there we started our touring immediately first with an old railroad station as Edirne was an important stop for traders as they traveled on to Europe.  But the true jewels of this trip were the Mosques.  While I had liked the ones we had been in before, the Mosques found in Edirne were much more colorful and well we all know I am not one to shy away from color.  Seriously though the colors and paintings on the walls were just so much more ornate and they seemed to be brighter and have more windows.  My favorite of the three we visited was the last one we saw Selimiye Mosques it was built to impress and well I was definitely impressed.  But it isn’t just the Mosque that impressed me, it was the entire complex- the gardens, the market, the courtyards, etc.  The coolest thing about Mosques I think is that they are built as complexes with multiple parts.  When I think about the many Cathedrals, Churches, and Chapels I have seen they seem to be built into a city.  They blend in and become just another building on the street.  With Mosques they are built to stand out and be seen, they are the focus and no other building around them shadows it.
 

In America, we take great pride in our freedoms and rights but the more time I am spending in Turkey I have started to wonder are we really that free when it comes to religion (especially for Muslims).  I was talking to one of my new friends here who is an American Muslim.  She said the most fascinating thing to me- This will be the first time that I will get to celebrate my holidays and not be in school for my Muslim holiday.  With that statement the reality that not all Americans feel they are fully free to practice their religion.

At Christmas, everybody makes a big deal about being politically correct I mean people don’t even feel comfortable saying Merry Christmas preferring instead to be inclusive and say Happy Holidays instead.  But Muslims don’t have a Christmas or any sort of holiday during the Holiday Season but when they do have a holiday it isn’t even recognized.  Turkey is a really fascinating country to study in terms of religious freedom because while the Ottoman’s are recognized as being a Muslim Empire they were tolerant of all religions and to this day Turkey has no single national religion.  As I have stated in a previous post I think America could learn a lot from Turkey in this respect.

It is funny to me how much time I have spent recently thinking and contemplating religion- my own and the concept in general.  If someone were to ask me if I was a religious person I would say no I am a spiritual person.  There is no doubt in my mind that religion and religious structures are powerful but it is that power that makes me say I am a spiritual person.  I think that religion is what you make it, God is whoever you want God to be, and at the end of the day no matter if you are Christian, Jewish, or Muslim we all believe that there is one God.  And for me that’s all that matters- faith and hope that there is something out there larger than ourselves, looking over us, protecting us from each other and ourselves, and guiding us through this process we call life.  For, “when you come to the end of everything you know And are faced with the darkness of the unknown, Faith is knowing one of two things will happen.  Either there will be something solid for you to stand on, Or you will be taught how to fly.”- Barbara J. Winter.

In many ways this Semester abroad was a leap into the darkness of the unknown and through it all I have had Faith that everything would work out and so far that has been true.  Falling is just part of that process.

On the next day the true adventure began with us first finding our way back to the bus station so we could get a bus to our next destination Olympös where we were staying in tree houses… that’s right I said TREE HOUSES!!!  We arrived and immediately knew this was going to be one of the highlights of this week.  I mean how could anybody be upset when you are staying in a room with a tree running through the middle of it?!?!  Little did I know that the best part of my day was yet to come.  Our group split into two: some wanted to go rock climbing while the rest of us were down to see the ruins and check out the beach.  I was in the latter group and had the most amazing experience.  The ruins were in a fenced off park like area.  Once you got past the gate though you were free to roam and climb amongst all the ruins.  I felt like Angelina Jolie in Tomb Raider traveling through a forest stumbling upon cool ruin after cool ruin.  The pictures really don’t do the experience justice.
As we made our way through the park opened up onto a beach.  While it was a pebble beach it was possibly the most beautiful beach I had ever seen.  Standing there you look out into the crystal blue water with cliffs ending at the edges and then you turn your back to the water and you see these huge green mountains with ruins sprinkled throughout the foliage.  We got there as the sun was starting to set too so you can just imagine how magical it all seemed.  When we got in the water, we swam over to the cliffs and after getting some helpful tips on how to climb up we took them over.  Climbing up the cliffs was possibly the scariest experience-I’ve never been so scared to fall (and I’m pretty use to falling) but once I was on top there was no going back all I could do was jump and I did just that.  Hitting the water was not the most fun but the hang time right after you jump and before the impact was an incredible feeling.  All of this made me just feel like I was on cloud 9. The next day we woke up super early to get a bus to Fethiye the last major stop on our week adventure.  Once we arrived we split up and went in search of a boat to take us out for the late afternoon and sunset.  After a little bit we hit the jackpot and headed out onto the Mediterranean.  Having pretty much been raised on a boat this was just amazing and I loved being able to bring our whole crew of 22 together for the night.  Literally sailing off into the sunset we stopped in between two islands, swam for a while and then ate dinner as the sun set.

As the sun was setting I had one of those moments where you go wow life is really good like REALLY good.  Here I am surrounded by people I have become friends with basically instantly, I am watching the sunset on a private boat in the Mediterranean and there really isn’t anything I’m super concerned about.  We spend so much of our life searching and striving for happiness like it is a mission, but in that moment I realized happiness is a mood that constantly changes, not a mission.  So instead of striving to be happy I’ve decided to just enjoy life and live in the moments that make me happy.  Sitting on that boat watching the sunset was a moment that made me happy and I am looking forward to many more of those moments.

Our final day of the trip was definitely the most daring day.  I mean I jumped off a mountain and flew above the world attached to one guy controlling our parachute, I think that is pretty daring.  I have always wanted to go sky diving so when people started tossing around the idea of going paragliding I was totally down!  To make the experience even better we were doing at one of the most photographed beaches in Europe, so the view wasn’t that bad.

Going up I started to get nervous but like the cliff it was one of those things where there is only one way down.  Taking off we sailed into the clouds and up above the mountains and I had the most amazing rush of excitement.  I can’t even begin to describe the joy and utter shock of what I was doing felt like- It was just incredible!  I took a 1,000 pics trying to capture the moment and I think some of them do it but it was hard to truly capture it all.  Coming back down to earth was so sad, I wanted to just go back up immediately.  That experience was truly once and a lifetime and an amazing way to end probably the best week of my life.  I went from feeling like I was on cloud 9 to actually being on cloud 9 I mean I was sailing around clouds (even though the sky was clear, you get the idea).

Now that I’m back in Istanbul, summer is coming to an end (FINALLY, its only been 5 months) and I am headed off to class!  I guess the vacationing and partying had to come to an end (well… I’ll at least slow down and add in some learning).  But seriously, I am really excited to start classes, I mean I am that kid who gets SUPER pumped about getting new school supplies.  It’s not just about the classes though, it’s also getting to meet students from all over the world, it’s learning the language of the country I’m living in for the semester, it’s getting to learn the history of this culture and see the places I’m learning about in person, and most importantly it’s about having moments that just make me incredibly happy!

When we reached Bürsa we went directly to the Green Mosque, so named for the green tiles used to cover the Mausoleum that was built within the complex.  We learned that Mosques are usually not built alone but in complexes with a mausoleum, school, or soup kitchen.  After visiting both the mausoleum and mosque we went to the center of the city and visited the Grand Mosque.  This one truly was grand and very large.  Every time I walk into a mosque I’m fascinated by the script.  I think it is so beautiful and really appreciate that they do not try to come up with representations or figures of God.  The timing of this trip could not be more perfect too as I just finished reading The Shack (yes mom, I finally did it! And I absolutely loved the book!) where God shows Mack that there are many parts to God and that the Christian depiction of him as a father is not necessarily a true depiction.  I think that by having a rule that there should be no depictions God can be whoever or whatever you want and I love that!  The other really fascinating thing about Mosques is that they change and each one is very different depending on when it was built, where it was built, and who built it.  While there is always a dome and mehrab (depicts the direction to mecca) how that is constructed is very different.  The call to prayer is mesmerizing when done properly and I have yet to get tired of hearing it.  There is something to be said about how Turkey has been able to have both Christians and Muslims living within its territory peacefully for a long time now.  Turkey has no national religion and does not show preference to either one but allows them to live harmoniously in their state.  I think this is something the United States should look at carefully and learn from the Turks for they seem to have it right.

I know that many of you may be worried about me here, but I can assure you that I am very safe and have not felt threatened at all.  As you can see we are covered in the Mosques and Bürsa was a much more conservative Muslim city, but I only had to cover my head and shoulders out of respect to their culture in holy places and I haven’t had any problems interacting with the Turks.  While I do expect the turmoil to increase and I probably will witness some protests, I understand where the protests normally are held and I know to stay away from those areas (they are no where near me).  If anything this is a truly exciting time to be in the Middle East learning and exploring a country with a Muslim influence.  The world is shrinking in size as communication becomes much more accessible and it is time that we learn to work with each other not against.

Anyways back to Bürsa.  After a long day of looking and learning about Mosques and the many early Ottoman rulers buried in the city, we headed to our hotel which we were excited to hear had a Turkish bath (hamum).  The bath is actually the place and environment in which people go and steam, bath, and scrub themselves.  I have come to the realization with my few trips abroad that every other culture outside the US is VERY comfortable with their bodies.  Lets just say the women in the bath were very comfortable and for us Americans that was quit a shock and a little jarring.  I chose to get a massage and lets just say it was more of a rub down than a massage.  But in the end it was an experience and I can say that I have been to a Turkish bath.

The following day was filled with more Mausoleums and Mosques BUT the highlight has to be the amazing Turkish village Brunch that we had.  Everything was hand made and fresh from the village- the bread, the cheese, the jams, the tea, eggs, etc.  It was amazing and SO SO SO good.  As you can see nothing would be complete without Turkish Coffee.  It is a lot like drinking a shot of espresso but they add the sugar in for you and it is very strong.  Each time I have had it, it has been delicious.  Another tradition I’ve really gotten into is they like to have a small glass of hot tea at the end of every meal.  It’s delicious and really a great way to end a meal.

The next day it was time to head back to Istanbul, but first we would stop in Iznik.  Set on a beautiful lake Iznik has a very important history.  It was originally Hellenistic and over time became taken over by Turks and the Ottomans.  It was the takeover of this city by the Ottomans that set off an alarm in Rome and began the period of crusades.  It was a quaint town with the original city walls still there (in ruins of course) and even a roman theater.

We began our stop here at the Hague Sofia.  Did you know that Sofia means Wisdom and that Hague is Divine there for when things are called this it does not mean church or place of worship but where the Divine wisdom is located.  This Hague Sofia began as a Basilica, then transformed into a Mosque, then a museum, and finally it has been converted back into a mosque.  It was a really fascinating example of this process and a very old example as you can see.  We learned that in the western part of Turkey this process of converting churches into mosques is very common as the western part of the state was taken over by the Romans and was quit Christian before the Ottomans took over.  The rest of the day we visited another green mosque again so named for the tiles, had a beautiful fish lunch by the lake, and shopped in the local market for some tiles(Iznik was where the beautiful tiles that cover the blue mosque and other buildings in Istanbul) before heading back to Istanbul.

Below are some pictures of the Group! We had an awesome time in Bürsa and now most of us are off to Antalya for the week.  I am expecting to have an amazing time and will keep you posted! Look forward to some crazy pics from the beaches of Turkey and even me Paragliding.

But I needed some way to communicate with my friends.  Smoke signals would be obscured by the haze from exhaust, construction dust, and steam from donners (rotiserries); and broadcasting wailing messages through the minaret sound system would probably be non-PC, so a cell phone was the only alternative.  Fortunately, I had a decent Samsung phone from the US, which I thought would be a breeze to set up with a Turkcell SIM.  Wrong.  The Turkish government has—for lack of a better word—a racket set up that requires international-phone-users to pay a 100 TL (about $50) registration fee.  Still, 6.5 hours is better than 13, so I resolved to register rather than cave and buy a phone.

Little-Known-Fact: The Turkish government’s real penalty for bringing a foreign phone into the nation is not the fee, but the process of paying the fee, which is cloaked in secrecy and nigh-impossible for non-Turkish speakers.  But for your sake, I intend to pull some civil disobedience and describe, in clear English, the process for finding the Tax Office where a registration fee might be paid.  I’m breaking Article 74.3 of the Turkish government’s “obscure-registration-fee-paying-process” law, but hey, I’m a rebel:

At 1:30 pm I walked to the local Turkcell center.  It was blocked by a back-end loader busily tearing up the macadam to lay pipe—I dashed around the machine when it looks docile, and entered the shop.  I got a registration form and directions to take it to Turkcell high command in Etiler, a nearby neighborhood, where they would give me another form, which I would have to take to the Tax Office (henceforth T.O.).  The registration form was torn across the bottom, but I didn’t ask questions.  I should have.  When I arrived at Etiler and showed a Turkcell lieutenant my torn form, he asked me where the signature was.  I said that the form had been torn when I received it.  He gave me that knowing, kindly contemptuous look you give a 4^th grader who’s done a bad job faking his mom’s signature on an absence slip, then told me that I needed to go to the T.O. before he could do anything to set up my phone.  Where is this T.O.? Sisli (sheesh-lee), he said.  Take the 59C (Istanbul buses are a bewildering mix of numbers and letters, with no particular order or logic. 59C might take you to Sisli, but then C59 might take you to Syria).

Sisli.  Istanbul has boroughs, like NYC, and Sisli is one of them.  Not a stop, not a street—an entire neighborhood, in which the T.O. was hidden like a needle in a crowded, noisy, non-English-speaking haystack.  But I blithely got on the bus and stepped off at Sisli square, expecting to see a giant building with “TAX OFFICE” in neon on the front.  No such luck.  Fortunately, Turkcell shops are nearly as plentiful as donner kebap (I counted 5 within a two-minute walk of Sisli square), so I went in one with my phone, my torn registration form, and an I-Don’t-Speak-Turkish-Please-Help-Me expression plastered on my face.

In the long and involved explanation I got, I understood 3 letters—PTT.  Holmes-like, I decided to construct a brilliant plan of action based on those three letters: I would wander aimlessly, muttering “PTT” and squinting at signs, until I saw a big “PTT.”  I was in luck: I came across a large yellow PTT sign on the first street I searched, and entered.  It looked too shabby to be a phone emporium (Turkcell shops, especially, are very slick) and too nice to be a government building.  Still, I showed my registration form to the desk with all the insecurity and uncertainty of Simon Pegg showing his fake badge to the Russian official in Mission Impossible: Ghost Protocol.  He pointed me toward the bowels of the building, I wandered in, and found a nice girl with an Amelie haircut who spoke passable English (in short, I fell in love instantly).  She knew abstractly where the T.O. was—next to some stadium—but she couldn’t give me any concrete directions.  I asked her to draw a map.  She said she didn’t have a map.  I would have pointed out that’s not what I asked, but I didn’t want to hurt Amelie’s feelings.  So I just listened as she told me to ask a taxi driver (which I immediately ruled out because of the speed, surliness, and crummy English skills of every taxi-driver I’ve encountered thus far).  Then I wandered back out into the (by now 3:00) sunlight, dazed, and walked into another Turkcell to ask yet again.

Strike 3 was cruising toward the plate, but at the last minute I bunted it: this Turkcell lieutenant introduced me to an English-speaking private (he lived shut off from the emporium at the bottom of a dim staircase) who could give me directions.  He said the T.O. was next to the Cevahir hotel, and even wrote on a slip of paper what sign I should look for (to my dismay, it was 5 words long, began with “Zincirli” [zen-cheer-lee], and looked like it belonged on a Turkish med-school final).  This is when my special Turkish-memory-tactic came in handy.  For me, French and Romanian words stick like slightly al dente pasta thrown at the ceiling, but Turkish sticks like a tennis ball thrown at a steel sheet.  Since I can’t rely on memory, I rely on pseudo-synesthesia.  Synesthesia is this disease (which I’d gladly have) where words or numbers or sounds automatically trigger other senses.  See a “4,” and you smell fried onions, etc.  To do math you have to mentally cook a meal.  Well, I connect Turkish words to similar-sounding English, French, or Romanian concepts.  “Cevahir” = chevalier = an image of a knight on a horse.  Zincirli—well zin = zen = Buddha under a lotus tree.  So whenever I was furiously searching for Zincirli, that “zen” trick both helped me remember and calmed me a little.  A very, very little.

The Turkcell private pointed vaguely in some direction and returned to his cell.  I walked back across Sisli and showed my precious piece of paper—the lifeline of my mission—to a friendly-looking Turk in a red polo.  He nodded vigorously and began speaking in Turkish, illustrating with hand signals, which helped about as much as an interpretive dance illustrating the true essence of “Tax Office” would have.  By now, a cheerful woman and her daughter had joined in and were bantering with red-polo (I kept hearing “tourist” [the only English word incorporated into Turkish, appropriately].).  They asked me if I could take a bus, I said no—it was personal between me and T.O. now, and I wasn’t usin’ no bus as a crutch.

All seemed lost, but then red-polo had a brainstorm and pantomimed drawing a map.  For one sickening moment, I thought I didn’t have a pen, but I found one in my very touristy-looking green drawstring backpack and gave it to him.  To my delight, he drew a simple, slightly curved “T” shaped intersection (I was at one end of the horizontal “T” line), and then a box at the far end of the vertical line to illustrate “Cevahir.”  Not content to stop there, he grabbed my arm and coaxed me into an underpass lined with shops—I thought this meant his fee for helping me was that I buy some knock-off crocs or stuffed animals, but in reality he was leading me through to the next road.  A real humanitarian.  He even crossed the road with me—Turk-style—waiting for a slight lull in the traffic and executing a frogger-style crossing at top speed.  He then turned to me, beamed, shook my hand warmly, and wished me godspeed (I think.  He might have quoted Confucius for all I know).

Well, red-polo had been taking lessons from van der Rohe, because his minimalist map didn’t mention the numerous side streets, turns of the road, or distance I had to travel.  Halfway down the long and winding road, I asked a couple seated on the steps of an apartment complex if I was on the right track.  They waved their arms further on.  Always further on.  Then I realized the great, ironic, mocking trick that the Turkish government had pulled on me.  Tax Office = T.O. = to, towards, always in the distance.  Maybe there was no tax office.  Maybe my quest—not the attainment of some destination—was all I needed to register my phone.  Maybe I needed food and water.

Sunstroke philosophizing healed by a gulp from my Nalgene, I carried on, and the steep downhill road leveled out in the parking lot of a mechanic.  A tricked-out black Skoda was sitting there with its guts exposed, and a couple guys who looked like slightly mellower Hell’s Angels were looking suspiciously from side to side in the threshold of the shop.  One had a pony-tail and ornate sideburns—the other was a nondescript stocky dude.  I was on the point of asking these guys directions, but afraid that I might end up the way Frodo would have if he had asked a passing orc directions to Mount Doom, I carried on.  I then found an old lady—the complete opposite of Hell’s Angels, and asked her.  She pointed me up the next ridge (you can describe parts of Istanbul like you describe the Alps), and I headed on.  At the top of the ridge was a shuttle stop—clearly an out-of-town shuttle, like the maxi taxis in Bucharest, my hometown.  No matter what country you’re in, you can tell a shuttle stop—hands too calloused for typing or scraping donner kebap, tanner faces, slightly shabbier clothes, and that weird mix of pride and insecurity that self-sufficient outsiders always seem to have during their rare visits to the big city.

I walked on.  Past the bus stop, on up the hill, for a quarter mile until I came to a fellow with Jesus-hair and a smile.  I just said Cevahir,and  he turned me around and pointed.  I looked up (a direction one doesn’t look when navigating the moving obstacle course of Turkish streets) and there was a massive, beautiful sign saying “Cevahir” on the summit of a huge apartment complex.  I thanked the Jesus-doppelganger and headed on.  Suddenly, I was in a cool, beautiful lobby—fountain tinkling, rock sculptures, metal detector to keep out explosive riff-raff, the whole nine yards.  Only one human in sight—a girl (no Amelie, but nice) sitting at reception.  I asked her if the Tax Office was nearby.  She looked quizzical.  I showed her my directions, and she looked amused, like I’d just shown her an origami crane I’d made.  Then I mentioned I spoke English (look, something I can do!), and she signed for me to wait and called her English-speaking colleague.  She handed me the phone, I wiped my sweaty ear with the bandana I always keep handy, and listened to the beautiful sounds of good-old 21st century Anglo-Saxon.  “How can I help you?”

“I’m looking for the tax office.  I was told it was next door to this hotel.”

“Well, I’m not sure, let me…beeeeep.”

Yes, the phone had cut out. It’s always like this.  At the worst possible moment—when Isildur was about to drop the Ring into the fire, when Dr. Who was about to tell Rose he loved her, when Menelaus was about to kill Paris and end the war—I got a dial tone.  400 HP lost from my confidence.

I walked out, dejected, and into a nearby gas station—one of my side-quests on this mission was to get a map of Istanbul—and asked the three loitering employees where I could find the tax office.  They pointed, I looked out the window, and saw those beautiful three syllables amid a morass of other Turkish words—ZINCIRLI!  Too elated to thank the gas-station-men, I ran off to the tax office, and stepped through the door, outside of which children were romping around, like children do, even when the fate of registration forms is hanging in the balance.  There was an old, white-haired but Ottoman-tough-looking security guard stationed at the entrance.  On a whim, I showed him my torn registration form (strangely, everyone seemed to recognize it, though no one could tell me what exactly to do with it.)  He pointed vaguely to his right.  Right of him was a room with frosted windows, which looked like the venue for either strip-searches or interrogations.  I hoped he was wrong, and just walked toward the most crowded part of the building.  There I found a knot of young, hip-looking employees, but my English-speaker turned out to be a balding, meek 40-year old.  He led me straight to one of those ticket/teller windows and I forked out 100 TL and my torn form and, in short, laid all my hopes and dreams at his feet.  He nodded, moved to the adjacent cubicle (a cute bit of beaurocratic rigmarole) and gave me my receipt.  I was registered.  I had conquered the system.  I could now hold my beautiful Samsung phone which causes who-knows-what  kind of cancer up to my ear and talk to people!

Now, don’t let this account give you the impression that Turkey is all surly cab-drivers, overpriced phones, confusing directions, and beaurocratic hassle.  I had beautiful moments—saw a woman driving in a colorful head-scarf delicately tap her horn to shoo some kids out of her way (a Romanian would probably have gotten as close as possible, then leaned on the horn at full blast).  Red-polo was one of the best people I’ve met, period. Even the fact that people don’t know English is comforting—if you’re under 25 and wear lots of black you probably know that great Rammstein song “We’re All Living in America.”  Well, Istanbul is as un-America as any place I’ve ever been, and that’s, as Dr. Who would say, fantastic.  Maybe at Walmart I could have gotten a phone in 5 minutes, and gotten an eye-checkup and bought my groceries while I waited, but in a world more plagued by homogenization than the Roman Empire—Big Macs in Paris, Coke in Beijing—I’m grateful for a bit of thoroughly un-American, uniquely Turkish, adventure.

I was so overwhelmed by everything so I spent a lot of my time just watching the people.  As we made our way down the street we stopped and got some Turkish Delights, watched them pull ice cream like taffy, and went into an art gallery filled with pieces centered around Revolution.  We made it to the water to take some pictures of Istanbul at sunset and then got dinner on the terrace of a building to watch as the sky darkened.  It was beautiful and the most amazing way to spend our first full day in Istanbul.

On our second day we took a tour of the campus that we would be calling home for the next 3 months.  There’s only one word to describe what it was BEAUTIFUL, it was absolutely stunning. To the left you can see a picture of what we see on our walk to the South Campus.  And views like that surround you as one walks around campus.  There is just no way anybody can escape the wonder and beauty of this incredible city.  Below is a picture of the South Campus academic buildings.  Once you are on the campus everything is very close, it is just the getting to the campus that takes a while. But I mean with those kinds of views its not such a bad walk.  As we are learning more about the school I’m finding it isn’t that different from American universities, especially since all the professors have gotten their PhDs from American Universities.  There are also a ton of other exchange students on campus.  It is funny to walk around now and hear other American accents, but there are also Australian, Lithuanian, and German accents.  On campus everyone speaks English well, but the minute you step off I realize quickly I am a long way from home and seriously need to learn the language.

The campus is overrun with cats and dogs but mainly cats.  You can see a few in this picture but you seriously can’t walk 2 feet without seeing a cat.  The most fascinating thing is that they are all well fed, friendly, and seem very happy.  The people seem to like them and the cats and dogs live in harmony.  I am not going to lie I like them a lot as well.  I have always been a big animal person and having all of these animals around who will walk up to you just for a pet or two is kind of wonderful.  The people, like the animals, are also very friendly.  I haven’t had any problems or felt out of place really (besides the whole language thing).  Our program directors have also done a phenomenal job in organizing activities and helping us through the process of getting settled in.  With their support and guidance I think we are in for an amazing adventure.   Classes will begin on September 24th and I can’t wait to make more friends in the University.

Last night our directors had a dinner cruise planned for us.  To get to the water front we had to travel down some really steep and narrow streets.  But with Porsche’s, Bentley’s, and Ferrari’s passing us the trip wasn’t that bad.  I am fairly positive now that we live in a very wealthy neighborhood.  Down by the water we walked a good ways up to the boat passing fisherman after fisherman.  Even late at night when we got off the boat and were walking back there were still a ton out fishing.
In a big group we attract a good bit of attention.  In New York I had to get use to the cat calling, but in Istanbul they really just are fascinated by foreigners.  So where the looks and stares in New York were hard to deal with, here I don’t mind them.  On the boat we spent most of the time just talking and watching the scenery go by as the sun set.  Then we danced under the stars and in between Asia and Europe.  The magic of Istanbul flows right into the night time as the city illuminates with lights, music, and people.  This is just the beginning but I think I’m going to really enjoy being here.

My last few weeks in Istanbul were maybe the best of the whole semester. Deciding to move my exams so they would end on the third day of the two week exam period was the best decision. My summer began early, and there was not a single care in the world (even though, let’s be serious, there was not much work done to warrant the break, but I’ll take it). In Istanbul, the weather was warm and I was able to get that sun that only North Cyprus in April was able to give me. My final weeks consisted of a diverse array of activities to say the least: I swam in the less than clean Black Sea at the Bogazici Kilyos Beach, strolled around Dolmabahce Palace, took part in a chocolate making class, went on a boat cruise with the Duke Program (no flippy-floppies allowed on the green, let alone the boat), raged at a free Avicii concert on Caddebostan, and experienced Gonca’s cousin’s circumcision ceremony in a village outside Afyon. In my free time, I was able to sit back and reflect on my experiences over the previous few months. And after a lot of thought and mellow-dramatic moments, I can genuinely say I do not regret a moment of this adventure.

To begin, I passed all my classes (even though Ottoman history came way too close for comfort). My biggest academic success of the semester was learning Turkish. I did not realize my ability until I was forced to translate and speak for my family during their four-day visit, but I became fairly conversational in the span of four months. Sure the conversation did not go far past the weather, school, and family, but my fluidity while speaking on those topics could be described as impeccable (according to numerous taxi drivers). However, I can only attribute a segment of this success to Beginner Turkish for Foreigners I. The thanks go to the moments I sat with my Turkish friends and listened…and listened…and listened…

My favorite moments were when I would input into the conversation, and my friends would pause, turn toward me, and ask, “You know what we just said?”

To continue with academics, I was extremely proud to call myself a Bogazici student, even if it was only for one semester. The response of “ohhhhhh, you go to BOGAZICI, your parents must be so proud,” never got old. While the school could use some new ideas, the school lives up to its reputation as the most prestigious school in Turkey. The campus has unbeatable views of the Bosphrus, the students are smart as well as engaging, and the Wonderland Café on campus makes the best falafel salad outside Jerusalem.

Speaking of food…

This semester, I found a few places to quench my hunger for those necessary staples of Borek, Menemen, and Tavuk Durum. I met a handful of restaurant owners and moved on from moo-ing at waiters at the beginning of the semester to having complete conversations with them. I was rarely disappointed at mealtimes, and I think I tried most Turkish staples (I left goat’s head and intestines soup off the list. I know they both cure hangovers, but I had to draw the line somewhere). I was never tired of Turkish cuisine, except for the few quesadilla cravings which are natural for any student Turkish or American. However, I think this speaks to the types of foods prepared in Turkey. There is an unbelievable variety of foods to try here despite the lack of diverse ethnic cuisines. It’s all Turkish all the time, and it’s all cheap. I believe a true sign of good food is when you want to learn to cook the dish yourself, and I picked up a few recipes along the way. Anyone at Skidmore next semester who wants the best scrambled eggs or lentil soup you’ve ever tried, just hit me up.

I think the next subject I must reflect on is the people I met in Istanbul. I can truly say this aspect of my trip most impacted my semester. For the first few weeks, I really struggled to find my place in the crazy metropolis. I felt a bit lost to say the least, and I questioned the hype around the city itself. However, the people I met over these past months have truly shaped my opinion of this city, and my life in general.

I need to start with Onur. My resident Hercules truly helped me see life from an atheist’s perspective, and made me realize that I will never be an atheist myself. We have such differing views on so many issues, music, and general life styles, and yet we’re always able to come together over How I Met Your Mother. This guy introduced me to his group of friends and introduced me to life at Bogazici. As the best roommate I could ask for on my exchange, you were the reason my semester became better after those first few weeks. Thanks bromeo. I’ll make sure to feed you soooo much food that you get tooooo full from eating when you come to America. In return, you’ll give me a share of your father’s company.

To my American biddies Yunus, Glen, and Becca, yall truly gave a taste of the good ole’ USA by being the most Texan I could ask for (Yunus, let’s be serious, you and I definitely picked up a little drawl during the semester). You guys joined me for some crazy Taksim and Nexus nights, and helped me have a pretty epic exchange experience. Let’s try to convince Hazal Anna to ship us some Iskender and Tavuk Salata to reconvene over in the states.

The Freshman Industrial Engineering Department. From nights at Kucuk Beyoglu Café Pi to Kareoke to Fasils, you gave me familiar faces on campus to see and relive some of my best Istanbul moments with. You guys are the most welcoming group of people on campus, and easily the craziest I came across in Turkey. Thanks for permitting someone with the least science and math skills to join a group of Turkey’s best engineers. Sing some Hande Yener for me.

Gonca and Buse: You completely opened up and warmly brought me into your lives. I spent every day with the two of you, and your “Oh, David, Hello!” and “Gunaydin”’s made every day better. Thank you for putting up with me living in YK-1 304 and always inviting me to everything you did. I know you’ll be in America soon, and hopefully I’ll be back in Turkey sooner so that we can keep the good times rolling.

And Hande, you know how thankful I am to have met you, but I’ll tell you again. You taught me that it’s ok to not look at a price so long as you will enjoy the product as well as the importance of not eating like a 5 year old. You took me to all your favorite places and came by my side to re-experience Istanbul with me. You even threw me my first surprise party at the best club in Istanbul (which still makes me smile every time I think about it). Every day together, I matured and learned something new. I could not be luckier to have you in my life, and I could not be more excited to travel through France together.

Overall, this city is different. I don’t know what it is, and I don’t know what makes it so unique. Maybe it’s how every store and restaurant has a person in the front welcoming you in. Maybe it is how this one city has equal parts sea, mountains, and cosmopolitan city centers. Maybe it is the blend of determination and relaxation on the faces of the residents on every street corner, and maybe it’s the friendliness that Turks have toward Americans that is rare among most Europeans. Whatever it is, Istanbul provided me with a unique study abroad experience that I truly believe was unlike any I could receive in another country. When I look back on my opinions and perspectives before I arrived here, I can tell that my outlook on life has grown and developed. Trust me, there are some aspects of Turkish culture and politics that could use revamping, most notably in terms of gender and ethnic equality. However, my exchange in Turkey depicted a country in the midst of rapid development that still maintains much of its cultural roots. While these roots may be displayed on stages in front of wealthy European tourists for absurdly high prices, the same rituals can be found in the smallest of villages just a few hours’ drive away, re-creating unique cultural experiences that everyone can appreciate.

It comes down to this: The fact that I can be flying over Italy en route to Paris, recognize the number of things I still need to do in Istanbul, and not regret missing any of them because of the number of things I accomplished this semester, is a true sign of my experience in itself.

Whenever my Turkish friends ask me if I think I will come back, I’ve never been so sure about my positive response. There is still so much to see and do that cannot be accomplished in one semester, and deep down, I believe I will be back in the near future (‘insallah’, as they say in Turkish). To anyone looking for a unique study abroad experience that re-defines what cultural-exchange truly means, I highly suggest coming to Istanbul. If you’re willing to let go of your pre-conceived notions of what Turkey is supposed to be and make a strong effort to blend in with the hard-working, laissez-faire attitude, this country will be a good fit for you, just like it was for me.

Gorusuruz Istanbul,

David