Unrealized Potential

The Politics

When reading the election bulletins over this past weekend, two themes kept coming up more often than any others: apathy and depression. Under Western reasoning, recent events should have greatly engaged the Egyptian people. We have directly witnessed pivotal developments such as the sentencing of Mubarak and his sons, the dissolution of Parliament, and the first democratic presidential election in the country’s history, among many more. But nevertheless, the general mood has been one of indifference or even resigned acquiescence. I don’t mean to dismiss the Egyptian people’s incredible public awareness – everyone clearly knows where he or she stands, and there have been demonstrations of celebration or frustration far greater than those we could ever seen in America.

But the harsh reality of the situation is that in a non-trivial sense, very little has truly changed from the situation two or even ten years ago. A couple days ago, we had the privilege of meeting with Professor Abdallah Schleifer from the American University in Cairo. One of the most interesting points he made was that the real coup in Egypt, rather than the dissolution of the Parliament, occurred right after the revolution. Despite all the anti-establishment sentiment and raw strength of the revolution, the SCAF retained power and has been running daily public functions ever since. As such, the people got excited about the first several rounds of elections, but it has now become apparent, in Mr. Schleifer’s words, that there has been “no change in who is holding the power.” A shift from SCAF holding most of the authority to SCAF holding slightly more authority has very little impact on the lives of average Egyptians.

We’re still waiting for the final election results to be announced, but regardless of who wins, the political situation in Egypt remains the same as it has been for much of recent history – a constant struggle between the Muslim Brotherhood and the military establishment. We still haven’t seen the radical rebalancing of society associated with a true revolution. As of right now, the liberal revolutionaries simply cannot organize to match these formidable, long-standing institutions. And as a result, there is a vast sense of uncertainty and helplessness – no one knows what powers the President will have, what shape the eventual Constitution will take, what the power balance of the new Parliament will be, even whether Mubarak is currently alive or dead. The great promise of the ثورة (an Arabic word encompassing revolution, demonstrations, and a shift towards something new) seems to have been disappointed for the time being.

The Economy

Another incredibly insightful figure with whom we recently spoke – independent journalist Noel King – posed the DE Cairo group this question: “Where is Egypt’s economy going to be in 10 years?” It’s an important concern and, in the vein of the uncertainty mentioned above, no one quite has a definitive answer. Egypt has any number of incredible natural resources – it’s a beautiful place to visit, it’s experiencing tremendous growth in its population and intellectual talent, it has an unparalleled position of regional significance geographically and historically.

The Egyptian people could go any number of different grand strategy paths that could make their nation a regional economic power. They could revive their formidable manufacturing resources. They could continue to develop their tourism industry. Or, perhaps most promising, they could capitalize on their growing intellectual and R&D capital that has already begun to attract prominent Western investors.

The sad truth, however, is that none of these possibilities are being developed to their true potential. Given the confusion in government, the nation’s infrastructure simply isn’t keeping up with its rapid population growth, particularly in Cairo. I’m always struck by the fact that the vast majority of large buildings we see on any given day are high-density housing. Further, there is no stable intellectual and economic policy which could encourage corporate and individual risk-taking and development. On an international level, the same internal instability discourages foreign investment – no one knows what ideological position the government is about to take, especially with the Camp David accords at stake.

As a result, we have observed near-Western affluence in some areas and abject poverty in others. When the two are juxtaposed, the contrast is striking. You can buy a single glass of lemonade for 40 LE at the Four Seasons, then walk out the door and see the lower class begging for pocket change. This problem is a common one in developing countries worldwide, and there is enough possibility such that Egypt may well break out of this pattern in the near future. But currently, this raw economic potential of every kind is disappointingly underutilized.

The People

A common theme among our group discussions is the kindness and public engagement that characterize the Egyptian people. Both qualities generally surpass those found in America, as far as I am concerned. If you’ll pardon the generalization, the people here care about one another, and deeply hope to do the best they can in life. But their ability to actually effect change is ultimately limited – there is virtually no middle class and a distinct lack of social mobility. The sheer wealth disparity, as discussed above, forces the majority of Egyptians to stay where they are.

We often run into the same issue at Ana el-Masry. The children there, despite the many and intense challenges they’ve faced all their lives, are incredibly talented and bright. We’re consistently inspired by how much hope there is at that compound in the desert. But at the same time, we’ve grown more and more frustrated by the general organizational confusion out there – at times, even the staffers don’t seem to know what to do next. And although the children’s opportunity to learn and eventually work some service job or another basic career is a vast improvement over their earlier prospects, I can’t help but be disappointed given how beautiful and bright they are now.

The student

This all is meant to be neither overly depressing nor an indictment of Egyptian culture. I write it celebrating the potential, not grieving the loss per se. And “unrealized” necessarily means not knowing, a lack of awareness. The kindly fellow who sells us croissants every morning doesn’t understand national grand strategy, and doesn’t need to. The average Egyptian isn’t concerned with these macro political, economic, and social concerns.

But I do understand, I do know, I do realize how much potential there is here. What responsibility do I have to these people?

When we arrived at the compound this morning after a long break due to the elections, the kids were ecstatic to see us. One of my little friends kept telling me over and over again – اخي، اخي، اخي. I didn’t know what it meant at the time since he was pronouncing it with a heavy accent, so I asked Professor Lo. It means “my brother.”

That made me stop and reflect, more so than anything else so far. My 8-year-old brother reminds me so much of this particular child from Ana el-Masry. But my biological little brother in America will have infinitely more opportunity than my spiritual little brother here. He will grow up learning, in a stable home, and likely pursue a successful career after attending a prominent university. If he was born on the streets of Cairo, he probably wouldn’t. I honestly don’t think I could have surpassed such a massive institutional challenge myself.

I’ve been struggling with finding my place in society and the world for the last nine months. But now that I place my life in a global context, that quest suddenly assumes much greater significance. It can’t be just about me anymore. What can I do with my specific talents and historical narrative given my place in the global community? Or the more relevant question – what ought I to do? There is suddenly a new sense of responsibility and necessity, in an almost moral sense, to what I should do with my life. To waste what I’ve been given is to insult the constant efforts of Egyptians and other global peoples to do so much with so little.

I seem to have written you all another epistle instead of a blog post. Thanks so much for keeping up with my thoughts from our crazy last couple weeks. I’ll close with this – I’m not sure I have an answer to how to realize my own potential in a global context, but perhaps realizing the necessity thereof is the beginnings of an answer in itself.

On Democracy in Egypt

Today is not just any Saturday in Egypt. Today is the beginning of the voting for the run-offs in Egypt’s first democratic presidential election- something that will be taught in history books in years to come, and here I am, a small-town American girl in Cairo, witnessing democracy at work first-hand. The polls are open and Egyptians are casting their vote for either Ahmed Shafik, the former prime minister to Mubarak, or Mohamed Morsi of the Muslim Brotherhood.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What Egypt is facing is two extremes; a polarized election that it seems democracy often initiates. With our own election coming up in the States, it’s interesting to see the comparison. Like many Americans, some Egyptians are frustrated with the run-off candidates. They wonder “Where is the middle ground?” Putting whether or not democracy is or is not at work aside, the question remains: has the election become a game of power where the Egyptian people are simply the pawns?

My time in Egypt has been one of the most incredible and humbling experiences of a lifetime for many reasons. Unsurprisingly, one of them includes watching Egyptians take ownership of their country. The sense of dedication and commitment and the relatively peaceful nature of the protests have been what has impressed me the most, showing the world that violence is not required to make your voice heard. Egypt has also set yet another precedent for the world that the youth can make the ground shake too. Furthermore, that those younger generations are rising up to take their place with altruistic conviction.

While I’ve been staying in Cairo, I’ve had the opportunity to speak with many Egyptians about the election. It’s a topic many conversations revolve around because, understandably, it’s something that is constantly on people’s minds. Whether they were pro-Morsi or pro-Shafik, there was one thing they all had in common: the desire for a bigger and brighter future for Egypt. I also had the chance to speak with an incredible woman who communicated to me that she is finding her voice in democracy in a different way, by boycotting the election. She told me she felt trapped and that neither candidate was the right match for Egypt. Perhaps, abstaining from voting is a third and alternative choice for Egyptians. “Do you think a low voter turnout will affect the election?” I asked her. She replied, “We have thought about that a lot, but we know that this isn’t what we want for our country.”

Photo Source: U.S. Embassy Cairo

As I am sitting in our apartment, I find myself pondering the outcome of the election happening right outside our door. Is Egypt ready for a change and will they continue on the path to democracy? Did the revolution spark an inextinguishable fire? Will there be a fair and peaceful transition to power? It’s been quite moving to watch the foundation of democracy in action and I consider myself quite lucky to be in Cairo in the midst of history in the making. The rest of the world is watching Egypt through a screen and I’m one of the few witnessing the transition live. More than anything, though, I’ve valued the opportunity to see this momentous time through the Egyptian’s eyes. I’m inspired by their fight to determine their own future and their efforts in reshaping the face of Egypt. I’m reminded that democracy isn’t easy, nor is it always ideal. There are struggles that come along with it that requires an engagement that I believe the Egyptians have yet to shy away from. It requires a fight, and it’s a fight worth fighting for.

Photo Source: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dk5JxTLOcTI/T8C0q5hw0lI/AAAAAAAAwwg/uHPf4geQK5c/s1600/Egypt_Mohammed-Morsy-and-Ahmed–006.jpg

Zero Mobility

Every morning my cell phone alarm blares at 7:45. My eyes are heavy and I fumble in the dark to find my phone, dazed, confused, and annoyed from the sound that has awoken me from my deep slumber. I stumble to the bathroom to get ready for the day ahead, and as soon as the hot water hits my face, I remember their faces—the beautiful little faces that greet us every morning. After a long and bumpy ride into literally the middle of the desert, I forget how little I slept and how long the day will be. I can only think of the smiles on their faces.

The kids at Ana-El Masry are different from any I’ve ever worked with. They are absolutely crazy! They bite us, kick us, hit us, and pinch us. But they also love us. They hug us, hold our hands, kiss us, and attach themselves to our legs all day long. It’s a strange feeling to be so frustrated when one of them repeatedly slaps you in the face so hard that you get bruises, and then gives you a big sloppy kiss on the cheek. It’s been impossible not to fall in love with them. Every time we leave Ana-El Masry I get teary-eyed. It seems so unfair to leave them every day as they pout “Bukra?” (Tomorrow in Ameya).

Working with the kids every day, I can’t help but imagine taking them back to America; to give them opportunities that are not even remotely possible for them given their current state. But I have to constantly remind myself that the life Ana-El Masry gives them is better than the one they would have without it. They have a bed to sleep in, food to eat, and teachers who care about them. Their horizons expanded immensely the day they came to Ana-El Masry, and even though I cannot give them everything I want to, the staff cares for them intently and they are living a better life.

Every day at work reminds me of the disparity between America and Egypt. I have absolutely loved my time here, getting to know the wonderful people and seeing their passion for their work. But Egypt lacks mobility. The children at Ana-El Masry are stuck in a poverty trap.  It’s hard to ignore the stark contrast: in America, socioeconomic and educational mobility is possible, and happens frequently. In Egypt, it seems like the poverty cycle keeps people chained to their social class no matter how hard they work to move.

Growing up in America has given me so many opportunities that I haven’t seen until now. Even the smallest luxuries can make a huge difference in one’s ability to achieve. I wish there was someway to provide these opportunities for the perseverant and arduous people of Egypt.

Little Muhammad and I

I know the day will come when I have to kiss my Muhammad (the little boy in the picture) goodbye. But until then, I want to teach him and all the other kids everything I can, as well as learn from them.  I have already found that every day I learn more about myself through this process. The kids have already taught me to be more patient and forgiving, as well as stern when need be.  And with each passing day, I’m sure I’ll learn more. When I look back on this whole experience, I hope I can say I lived in the moment, and ignored the harsh reality that the end would eventually come, and I may never get to see the kids again. Until then, though, I’ll be plotting to take my Muhammad home with me!

Pyramids and Economics

If you are friends with me or any of the other DukeEngage participants on Facebook then you have probably already noticed all the pictures of the Pyramids we have put up. We had a great time, but I was shocked by how few people were there touring one of the wonders of the ancient world. It was so empty! Since we were one of maybe two groups there and all obviously American, we were swarmed almost instantly by vendors selling their merchandise and people trying to give us camel and horseback rides around  the pyramids.

 

Most of them were very friendly and treated us fairly, but it broke my heart to see them. I didn’t want what they were selling, but I know that they needed me to buy from them. Tourism makes up a quarter of Egypt’s economy and is down over 60 percent due to the political uprisings.  They were proud people who wouldn’t take handouts and who loved to welcome us and tell us about their history.  We discussed the upcoming elections and the effects each candidate would have on their livelihoods: tourism. It reminded me that even though prices are negotiable, whatever money these people can get means so much more to them than to me. 1 Egyptian pound is the equivalent of about 15 cents to me, but to them it is a falafel sandwich, a cup of tea, a metro ticket, or muffin. It is the means of providing for themselves and for me. I only spent about 40 pounds, the equivalent of around 6.5 US dollars, but I now half wish I had done more. I don’t have limitless funds, but I have been blessed with so much more than others.